stumbled on this today, might be worth a look
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?952523-too-long-battery-wires-will-kill-ESC-over-time-precautions-solutions-workarounds
I had my seaking burn up a few days ago. Normally it shuts off when it gets too hot, Iām not sure why it didnāt this time. Luckily the batteries survived.
Are users that have an active cooling system still getting burned out motor controllers? Iām wondering whether I should purchase a higher quality esc or go with the same one with water cooling.
I think the currents we are drawing water cooling is a much for long term survival. $20 pump and $5 hose, and two waterproof wire glands make all the difference.
hi Guys
I need your help.
For the cooling of the ESC I need a pump! I have already tried different models but none is suitable, either they burn through or have too little power.
Which ones do you use, and where can I get them from the EU quickly?
greeting mac
We did originally use a diaphragm pump with 5v but non are ment to last continuous run, and they burn out/wear out fast.
We then used a hose from our jet nozzle taking advantage of water pressure from propeller to cool this way, the harder you run the motor the more water pressure to cool, see photo below.
This week, we made some modifications yesterday and have a 44hour 3D print going for a new mast clamp design with a built-in Ram-Water-Inlet eliminating the external hose, brass elbow, and the drag come comes along with those things.
this week i had my hand on that:
https://www.powerbox-systems.com/produkte/smokesysteme/smokepump.html
very nice and expensive , made more for oil but he told that could work nicely in my setup and itās duty control wth esc signal or a servo tester
easy found in EU
Crazy expensive!! Why this in place of a classic and cheap 12V diaphragm pump?
This is designed to modulate the flow over motor speed, which doesnāt make any sense in our builds, we need to keep cooling active and steady, electronics temp is not istantly floating on throttle response! Thatās why water cooling thru prop downwash or board speed canāt be as effective as a stupid simple pump.
Iām trying this pump:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DC-5V-12V-6V-9V-370-Mini-Mute-Water-Aquarium-Pump-Diaphragm-Self-Priming-Pump/253511259131?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
with a dual ubec:
& Iāve got a small water intake below & behind the engine - then a water outlet out the back of the ESC box which I have mounted under the board.
Iāve also considered a small scoop in the front of the forward part of the mast clamp with the intention of eliminating the water pump altogetherā¦ but one step at a time
I use the same ubec and similar pump. Self priming does not exactly correspond to reality but with little help to engage, it work just fine and when primed, keeps going reliably.
CRIMP vs SOLDER??
Overheating wires/connection and de-soldering issue
I thought I would quickly touch on this again, PacificMiester touched on it in a post back in February
DeSoldering Connections Issue Post, and Crimping Post as it seems many builders are overheating, connections are desoldering and ruining ESC etcā¦
My wires can feel warm after riding sometimes and I use 8awg wire and 8mm gold-plated soldered connectors. But I feel its just a matter of time before there is a weaker solder connection and de-soldering will become an issue and potentially damage my motor, battery, or esc.
In short, after a lot of research and to avoid future headaches and save time not having to solder everything, I am changing all my connections to crimp connectors with plugs.
There was an article some years ago in āSport Aviation,ā the EAAās magazine, that advocated crimping and then soldering. Their argument was crimp for mechanical strength, solder to ensure the electrical connection.
Desolder a connector implicates 200++ C, a lot more than electronics and wire should withstandā¦ maybe itās just matter of undersized cable/ESC. Eventually, do solder with nasty lead-free, it melts at higher temp.
Inside the ESC I crimped the AWG8 motor side, but out of the box I use soldered xt150
yes, its very hot, and likely poor connections overheating and/or undersized wires. I like the idea of wires being mechanically held in place via crimp or pressure set screws. I made beefy 8mm gold plated bullet connectors with two pressure set screws which works really well and they can handle 170A and a little solder they are bullet proof.
Sounds very good!, can you pleas show us? Having reliable solid connectors is very important!
i had bad experience on crimp connector on car sensor before , i always prefer solder everthing, and i say good solder, it took me some time to learn to solder xt90 and xt150, i am using a 90W solder iron and it takes heat and time to make it perfect, the silcone wire rated for 200Ā°C sometimes melt before, on my step up on 8S i am always around 100A, the circuit breaker is warm the xt90 plug is hot but i donāt see how it can get loose, even with pics above 150Aā¦ i am not talking about impeller probably with higher amp, but still i run 8S which gives amp
this guys hold the world title for rc boat racing: the link for 400A connector in 6MM!!!
the best ,i guess, will be both crimp and solder, but it is hard to solder correctly big wires
I crimp where I can. Its important to match the wire, lug and crimping die together to get an effective crimp.
When done properly, the copper strands look like a solid core of copper if you cut through the lug.
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I tried several 8mm bullet connectors, it amazing how many different variations/quality there are when you buy from different sources. On the hunt for proper sized 8mm connector thats easy to plugin and unplug as some are really tough to unplug, while allowing double 8awg wires from ESC to be inserted and clamped with M5 pressure set screws, I cant pull out the wires no matter how hard I pull.
And if you put some solder inside at the bottom of connector and heat it up with wires in the ends get soldered with solid connection to bullet and M5 clamps lock it in with tight friction fit connection.
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When I was trying to buy my replacement ESC. Many of the high power ESCās had those dual input wires. I concluded they must be for aux capacitors to smooth the input power at high demand. Am I wrong? Were you able to get all the #8 strands from both wires into that connector?
Yes both esc wires are for current, and both fit in the end perfectly 
Great idea! Did you solder before or after you set the grub screws?
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Is that a 8mm connector with 2x 8AWG cables inside? Good effort.
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