is the alu plate is enough to dissipate heat ? i m planning to use 400 ESC with MAYTECH motor 100 KV and the same waterproof box HPRC 2350.
Yes it works fine with my vesc 75/300 , recorded 68c max with 100A , this plate was only for testing but finally I keep it for now , this is 2mm thick , but the next built I will use 4-5mm and cut lines half way in thickness or I can always add a watercooling plate on top …
If you look at on this post , in my first yellow box i put the plate inside and a heat sink outside , this was working better but the esc was smaller …
Max recorded on a sunny day , didn’t add water on top of the plate during
How is the RL foil? Im now looking for a very stable foil. Because with the colder season i would like fly in corners and not falling all the time. The takuma v100 is stable I think but with lower topspeed
Well for sure RL wing is faster but for now I keep the takuma , more fun , freestyle , fast enough 35km/h, I will try to get data for next week
I try the gong L : very nice and stable
Takuma V100 : ( just under the gong M) for me 82kg : I am very please and keep it this way
RL wing : I keep it and try again next year with a small board , I didn’t have a good feeling … and not enough skills yet
The one I want : takuma V50 
Takuma is expensive and heavy but very strong , stiff in the turns
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Hi. Thanks, so for riding as much as we can without falling is takuma v100 the best. And still able to handle 30 kmh with out too much amps. The v50 wing will fit under the takuma mast and fusulage?
Any how much power it would take to ride 25 kmh to 30kmh compared to the rl wing ?
Will rl the fusulage fit under the takuma mast? I just want to do a good investment where i can change wings. Thanks for the info
I have trouble recording data trip , but in order to get above 30km/h I need to put 70A for the battery for the takuma and 60A is nice for 27km/h
I wasn’t able to fly ( missing practice) with RL wing ( complete set with fuselage ) but I was « surfing »on water at 27km/h for 60A
No : I drilled the RL fuselage to fit the takuma mast , just need to add one hole and go from m8 to m6
I have the V100 from 2017 , not sure the fuselage 2019 is the same , and the v50 wing seems to have the bolt at the bottom
I will post pics
Finally did It , i pulled today 20a of my 24a battery pack , so happy !
I didn’t take my phone with me , so just a shot a the screen before turned the vesc off , it recorded the value without the app on …
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Ok thanks, at 27kmh is about the same power needed v100 and rl.
Thanks for sharing the data and info
No : takuma foiling , RL trying to foil (27km/h bouncing on the water )
With my remote it more on/off at start, and when I take off the water with RL wing the speed increases and you couldn’t level the board easily
For now I prefer the freeride style , slow sharp turns that offer the takuma with my skills
That s probably why they will offer soon a more stable ( and « slower ») RL wing
The takuma wing needs more battery , not a problem I have a good 30 min fun with my 12s8p and go back to shore , and change my battery pack
I was looking for the 20A, but then realised you meant 20Ah from the 24Ah battery. How long was your session?
I did not took my phone with me , but at least 40min in the water , so maybe 25min of flying , practice turns , and going slowly like 20-25km/h
With this battery setting it is at max 1A/min for 27km/h, less at 25 and a lot less at 20 …
For sure at the end of the pack i need at least 2200w to pop of the water with this board
I will make my firmware cable today so next run I will have a full data trip
Couple propeller to try ( I made one 130mm , 0.45 area…, printed in sls ) and still the RL wing
Your average current draw for the flying time is around 48A. That would make sense for that wing.
So today i made cable, went swd prog (1.16 fw3.58) in vesc tool
Selected : builtin ble and erase
My metr.at worked ! It is data time , in cold water …
When you know what to do , it is actually really simple , this is only for the trampa vesc 75/300 rev1 , the first one
Cable is made of 2 x 3pins ph 2.0 , cross wires so it is the same as the NRF plug
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My birthday present from my wife : rent a place for the we , in front of the lac of Annecy
So this morning 7.00am early wakeup , water flat beautiful !
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Happy birthday then, Alexander.
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just for fun and see if i can do it, designed my propeller (with the help of @Manu for the shaft hole and pin)
made it print in sls, but it is probably to fin, it’s strong but i think not enought… i can almost cut myself with the blades
i really want to try it, but it is perfect for some carbone fiber (but never done that) … i don’t know what to do …
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As we don’t have too many SLS references, if it wasn’t too expensive, why not testing it as is ? If it breaks, you will know that your fears where true and so carbon with resin should be applied on the next printing…
Above 70€, I would do like @Virus, cut some carbon fiber and apply the resin with a brush.
it was 60€, next print i will change blades design so i will not need carbon
i have carbon but not epoxy and i will be first try…
My first props were SLS. Its really strong stuff. I have only broken one when I couldnt control my throttle when I was testing. 360KV motor and 5:1 neugart gear.
If you dont think its strong enough you can try HP MJF which is similar to SLS but a bit stronger and stiffer. a little more $$ too. I can fully cavitate my MJF prop without breaking it.
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