I am on the brink to pot my first built and try to cull out all uncertainties…as if that would be possible
So when all completed, I watched a few you tube videos, as recommended.
Main questions I have at this stage:
PPM mapping: It did not save the values despite clicking save (tried to app and to motor)
I also did try to detect the FOC parameters. But I am a bit surprised about the values.
Motor Current Max: 44.70 A
This looks a bit low to me, as it is a original Foil drive motor.
The detected motor current is only a guess, you can increase it (max depends on your motor). It is not that relevant, R, L, Flux Linkage, Lamda and gain are the ones that are important.
Thanks for your message. I re-did the FOC parameters as well as R, L, Flux etc.
But now there is no reaction to throttle anymore. But it does show input in the PPM settings.
Seems there is a steep learning curve right infront of me
Thanks for your message. After running the input wizard a few times, it worked. After restarting the vesc, nothing anymore. But when it was working, the motor only started spinning when full throttle, then I could ramp down the revs. Which also seemed a bit odd.
I recall clicking loading standard values when doing the FOC wizard. This is when the whole shabang started.
Remote is connected, I do get a signal in the input wizard. So it seems to be a software/settings issue?!
Running v6.05 firmware on the FSESC 6.7 PRO
Doesn’t feel very reactive. But I guess that’s also because there is no load on it.
Heat sink is getting very hot.
But then i saw in the RT the temp of the ESC is raising despite not doing anything. went from 55 to 65 deg within 1min. 0A current
That shouldn’t be the case?!
This looks like you forgot to click on “use centered control” in the input wizard or put the wrong numbers in the top, check my video again closely
Also the little “precision” on current control with the motor in air (not loaded in water) is normal. Try braking the motor (carefully) with your hand to create some friction, it will get a little more “sensitive”. Or change control to duty cycle mode.
Temperature on the FSESC 6.7 PRO are quite bad anyways… in my opinion only ESC you can buy from flipsky is the 75100 / 75200 with ALU pcbs…
You probably will have overheating issues with the FSESC 6.7 PRO no matter which settings…
Redid the input wizard and made sure i used centered control. Thanks
Asking for a friend here. What if I used
Control Type: Current Reverse With Brake instead of Current No Reverse?
Could this be the reason of heating of so hard? Since I redid the wizard…no heat anymore. Stays at 31deg.
Thanks for the input on the 6.7 pro. I got it for a good price and it was plug and play programmed…but then the german engineer came through…‘and I just tried this’
It was planned to be the learning one as I also started making my own batteries…and I didn’t want to open too many cans of worms at the same time…but here we are…looking forward to mk2 with different hardware
Yes, the way you had set it before:
0 throttle remote = -100% vesc
50 throttle remote= 0 vesc
100 throttle remote = +100% vesc
So in idle it was doing -100% brake current all the time
That’s also why it did not start - vesc only start with 0 input as a safety
Regarding the ESC don’t worry too much - try it out and see! But if it gets too hot just know at some point it’s not you that is the problem or your settings but the design of that ESC
