I updated my 75200 to the latest firmware, followed efoil Hollands Manual and it worked right away. Had one test ride and I am very happy.
I found in this forum instructions for downgrading the firmware. It also seems to work.
Best
Christof
Old thread but I found this tutorial by Ludwig (the guy who designed the open source 3d printable remote) very useful, so I thought I’d link it here if anyone is browsing this thread looking for info.
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So I have been working on this for the last couple of days and boy oh boy is it frustrating. It seems like every time I start new I come to a different outcome despite using the same things and settings. I think I’ve read just about each post on here as well as all the flipsky videos and website troubleshooting.
Props to Ludwig Bre’s video, solid.
My setup is a flipsky VX3, 75200, 65161.
Where I’m currently at I am using just a lead acid battery to power up the ESC so I’m hoping that might be where my gremlins are coming from however it really shouldn’t make a difference right? It’s 12 volts with plenty of amps.
- What I’ve done so far is update the ESC to 6.0 no limits with phase filtering off.
- I’ve done the motor setup with large inrunner, direct drive.
- I have tried the BLDC as well as FOC options and defici seems to be the smoother one and both of them seem to ramp up to 100% duty cycle despite being on the duty cycle option versus current control option +/- no break.
- I’m on UART as I’m not using the PPM pigtail from the transmitter / receiver.
- FESC option on VX3
- messed with throttle curves, ie 40% expo
- on BLDC I can’t get it run detection.
I have tried this in the air, in a bucket without a prop as well as in the bathtub with a prop and with real-time data I don’t pull more than 3 amps with all three of these options.
I have mirrored all the amperage options under the motor tab from other users on here.
Again, hate to chalk this up to battery but it very may well be, but with the amperage that is needed with no load seems unlikely.
So my questions are
- do my settings look fine?
- is using UART as simple as it seems and you don’t have to go through a setup like you do PPM?
- will things drastically change once I put it in the water with me on top of it compared to in a bathtub with the propeller?
- Why am I not able to feather the throttle at all and it’s spikes straight to 95% duty, even in the bath with the prop
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So what exactly is your question? Without load everything may look a little awkward, but it doesn’t sound too bad. I had big troubles last year until I checked the motor cables, the connections indeed were broken. Be sure to check this. And I would use a decent power supply, something that at least simulates the real battery you will be using.
Where were the connections broken, at the coils or the bullets? For testing I’m just using crappy pigtails and not bullets yet but again for the amperage that I am suspecting at this point I can’t imagine it’s going to make too much of a difference. I could be very wrong though.
I have thought about buying a laboratory power supply for this as well as other things but typically they only put out 5 to 10 amps it seems.
I’m still waiting on the cells to build the battery so I might keep chugging along and hopefully once that’s done things just iron themselves out.
I updated the post with better questions hah
Well, with that little voltage like 12V you will likely not get many RPM on the motor (max motor RPM is KV of your motor * voltage applied)
So even with prop in bathtub you RPM is probably so low that the motor just wont pull more than 8A… Feathering the throttle also does not work with such light loads… If you imagine your throttle can control from 0 pressed to 100% presses between 0 and 90A. So if you want to control in the range of a few amps, the resolution is just not there. You can check that by setting the Motor Current Max to e.g. 10A, then try again.
Tip: Dont try with a lab supply, thats usually best way to kill a VESC 
Wait for the real battery.
Also note you are using the 75200 out of spec! Flipsky states “Voltage: 14-84V (safe for 4-20S)”
I’ve got an old 75200 that will only run properly in BLDC mode. In FOC mode at about 3000/ 50amps it cuts out out abruptly, like it’s hit the abs_current limit ( but this is set at 300amps)
I’ve experimented with increasing current limits etc, upgraded, down grade firmware etc.
Phase filters are off.
Could this be a hardware fault on the 75200?
The VX3 display will show you how it’s connected
RP is PPM
RU is Uart
Yeah, it’s RU but just surprised it’s that easy and you don’t have to do anything specific to set it up like PPM.
I used simple solar plugs last year and they looked good, but in fact they just couldn’t deliver the power (even when testing at the desk). So: make sure they are the ones you will be using later and wait for the real battery. Trying to let the bird sing feeding dog food will most likely not sound well.
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Well I got pretty much everything ready with final battery and connections. Still having the same issue. I changed all my setting for a 12s battery and appropriate voltages and amps.
I tried lowering the motor amps to 10a like Bre mentioned but still nothing. It just ramps up to 100% I went through all the setup again to be sure and followed @ludwig_bre instructions. I will throw it in the water and see what happens.
Anyone in South Cali want to meet up next week?! That is if I get it working.
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Well I threw it in the pool and seems to work. Remote only shows around 35amp draw with full throttle which I am surprised about.
In Newport testing now and only pulls 40 amps so can’t plane. It goes smoothly but just not getting all the power I need. Seems to work good otherwise. Went through the VESC tool and triple checked things and everything seems right.
Thoughts?
Hi, I have a problem.
Today I bought a new FSESC 75200, and did everything by the manual from this thread:
Step 1. Throw away… bla bla bla. Done
Step 2. Load the VESC tool on a computer. Done
Step 3. Physically connect the ESC to your computer via a USB cable. Done
- Power up the ESC. I don’t know how, because there are no switches on the ESC. And there are no indicators to check if it’s on.
Step 4. Run the connection wizard. I got an error: “Could not autoconnect.”
No new COM ports were added to the system, I checked in the Device Manager.
I also tried to connect via Bluetooth, but my PC and smartphone cannot find the VESC device.
You need to connect the battery to the VESC. The one I have has a led indicating it is on. Do not know how it is with the FlipSky ones.
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Thank you! This is a very important step, it must be included in the manual!