XXL tow boogie/SIB e-boat (jet drive?)

I will check next week, as I am not at home now

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A full electric mini kart racing boat, 2.25 long x 1 m wide, 15kw electric power, 60Wh battery …13k€ tax included.
https://doojetnautics.com/kart-racing-boat/
2f537d51-82e8-4e2d-9945-7c24b405401a-400x284

KART-BOAT-15Kw

nice—- please add powered wheels so we can drive it into the water too :racing_car:




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Printing the last few parts for this first version/test, but it is wired and spins.

Missing handle and tiller pivot part.


Very lightweight, I will do another controller box up top for 14S and external battery.

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This is a neat project!
Do you have any plan to run a water line for cooling the ESC? I imagine it could get quite hot operating as an outboard motor

Not planned in this version, my experience with 84100hp is it should provide more current than the 6384 can handle.

For a inrunner version and higher power, some sort of cooling line would be a good idea :+1:

First test went ok, few trolling runs a cross the lake at around 6-7kph.

I will need to try it with a bigger battery, as it draws too much current from the assist batteries and hits lvc very quickly under full load. 1600w peak power is ok for the assist but not enough to get on plane with the boat.

Next step is to test with a external 14s 20ah to see if the 6374 is enough to get on plane.

Good point is no cavitation, mount seems solid, lenght is enough to have good prop depth, super lightweight setup. The maytech remote cruise control is really helpfull for this kind of slow use :joy:

Will try pumping from the boat in the next few days, but speed of boat is sligtly slow to make it easy to hop start form the side of the boat.


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The dinosaur hat on the captain looks good!!


Hull shape
6km at 6km/h on 260wh (12S2P 18650)
Looking forward to test on a bigger pack, but I had some weird power cutouts at low loads, like the DCDC was shutting down the MCU/RX. The MOS temp displayed never went over 55°C
Water cooling, bigger motor and MKS84200hp will be required to run 4.5/5kw continuous as intended and get the pulling torque to tow.

Anyone with a reccomendation for a high power servo?

Edit: rctestfligh boat with the DC style one and custom gear reduction


Making progress, will order the purple parts in laser cut alu
That will remove the load from the plastic to full alu, and prevent the need for huge printed parts


I will make some housing on the top to install a DC/DC, kill switch, and RX, and some fairing for the gears.
The gray part with an hexagon will get clamped into the transom mount, hope it can be strong enough in plastic, and bear the load into a 10mm plate hole, there will be a alu tube in the middle of it.

Does anyone has a model of the 65162 motor? thanks!

Sporting out the motor and battery.

2* 14s4p of 21700 (salvaged from ebike packs)

65162 Motor from a forum member, needed a lot of tlc : new rear bearing, new wires, unbend M8 thread shaft part.




For the controller, I have a few options available.

Thinking again of going with a alu mast for simplification and durabilty, now checking cheap options.

Impressive. On the cable side of the motor there is a small round divot with silicone. Below this silicone there is a m5 hex grub screw and oring seal. If you remove the grub screw you can apply air pressure to this and check the motor for leaks. Important to do after big surgery like this!

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Hello, thanks for the suggestion, I think this motor does not have it.

Found a cheap mast (hotmer brought back takuma stock after bankruptcy)

Box for 2x 14S4P + other dry things on the boat :

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Found a full 3D model of a takuma mast mount for 65161 flipsky motor, saving me loads of CAD work :wink:

Scanned the mount to get a volume idea, I don’t own a lidar equipped phone so it is quite rough.

Reworked the mount to make it simpler and less of a torpedo in lengths.

8mm thick plate that would insert into the mast, and 4x M4 screws to fix it in place by the sides. if possible, use the front threaded hole of the mast to insert a 5th Screw into the nose cone.