Yge 205 Navy overheating problem


Does anybody use Yge Esc on efoil build or even better on Fr motor settings?
I have bought it to change my old Flier esc, but it is even worse than Flier. I set all parameters as it should be on Fr motor. The motor works smooth, but esc becomes hot and limits current after 15 minutes of riding with watercooling. I also tested the system in the pool on 50 Amps, but the Yge navy 205 esc reached 85 degrees celsius after 4 minutes.
I sent log file to Yge company, they said everything is ok, problem is that the throttle should be higher, because esc is not optimised to work on 50 % of throttle.
Answer from Yge:
I think the motor and controller is okay.
The throttle must higher because with 48 or 60% the system is inefficient.
The efficiency increases with higher throttle.
If the battery cannot be changed, take a motor with a lower kv.

Somebody has the same problem?

Because there is no answer I conclude nobody uses Yge esc on efoil. I just want to warn you, that this Esc overheats very quickly with Fr motor and I think it is the same with other direct drive units. I tried all possible settings and it is the same. They also have very bad software support.

Have you added water-cooling? If you running it without cooling then you can’t expect it not to overheat.

Yes, my water- cooling works with no problem.

I would assume David has tested it? He recomended any Yge, mgm and kontronik esc over 160 A for The motor in his thread.

what timing are you using on the YGE?

I spoke with David and he used it on the first propulsion units with planetary gear and he assumed that it will work fine also on his direct drive.( but never tested).
Timing is 12° as David suggested. Frequency can not be set, it is auto. I also tried different timing with no success. If I push esc without cooling on 70Amps it reaches 85°C (cut off limit current) after 2 minutes.

this is innerunner motor? If so, put timing to much lower values, try 3 or 5.

Their software is otherwise user friendly, but you are very limited with settings. It is possible to set timing 0,6, 12, 18, up to 30 or autotiming. You cant change it for value 1. I have tried timing 12, 6 and autotiming, which works the worst. Maybe I will try with 0 timing, but I doubt in will significantly change the overheating problem😏

Try the lower timing. The higher the timing the more torque is generated which makes it less efficient and generates higher operating temperatures. Try 2 degrees and make sure the water cooling has good circulation. Length of wiring and gauge are very important as well.

I tried with different timing settings and maybe there is a little bit of difference in positive direction with 0 timing. I run motor on 70 Amps ( no cooling)for 3 minutes before Esc reached 85°C and limited current.
I think this is not acceptable for this
brand and price.
If I cool it, I can drive for around 20 minutes.
@Bufadore , do you use it on the same motor or with some other propulsion unit?

70Amps at full throttle? Or how much % of throttle was it?

No not on full power, on 55% of throttle. ( shows maytech controller)

That’s your problem.
I talked to Heino Jung ( owner of YGE) about that some time ago.

Here is his answer and how you calculate the effectiv motor current.

Example: 75% Gas with 14s Lipo and 100A

Battery input power to the esc: P in = 14 x 3,7V x 100A = 5180W

Motor: Output power of esc : P out = 5180W / (14 x 3,7V x 0,75) = 133,3A

Even worse with 50% Gas:

Motor: 5180W / (14 x 3,7V x 0,5) = 200A

You can calculate with your values.

Ok tnx. He told me something similar but not with calculation. But I really dont care If it is written that can on work on 200 A should work on that Amps . I am using Lift foil motor with 14S Li-ion. How can other Escs works on this setup? So If I understand correctly that Esc is simply not “strong enough”? Heino said I cant do nothing.

Unfortunately the manufacturer ratings are wildly misleading and can’t be compared, sometimes used definition is battery amps, sometimes phase current amps. Sometimes current rating spec is 1min current, sometimes 10min and they don’t specify if they have a certain time or just guessed.

Bottom line, If manufacturer says it’s underpowered after seeing the log then it probably is.

There are one or two openings:
Matching: if controller does not match motor well then ineffective driving and excessive current is the result. If timing is the only setting you can do then find the best and try it on the water.

Increased cooling: Have you tried checking cooling flow and heat excange? Maybe there’s a problem there. Is the cooling water heated when it gets out? A simple measurement and a calculation of flow and the in and out water temperature will tell if it actually cools and how much.

PS don’t ever run controller without cooling, it’s not good even if there’s temperature protection in it.