When choosing tap shape, please consider the usage of the board. Where most non powered surf-foils prefer B & C type to “kick of from waves”.
I consider an E-foil an constant flying vehicle ( I do not ride extreme waves). Due to that we want the easiest take off requiring least amount of power. I would argue that Tail D provides the easiest water separation and Tail C the hardest since water will follow the bend surface and create downforce. It feels like board is sucked into the water and then it pop ups to flight quite violently.
I ride DYI inflatable, so naturally C-type and it requires 4kw to lift, which is no big deal when only lifting once per session, so I have not cared.
I have ridden some Fliteboard Inflatables though and there is a reason it transitions super smooth to flight. They have added a sharp 90* edge to the back to mimic the D-shape.
Easy for beginner to learn, then choose D for Foil. My 5 cents.
I’m from Montreal and I’m looking for a build and yours has a lot of potential. How did you figure out the exact placement of the mast and battery pack to the board as to have a proper center of gravity?
Have you considered a bigger battery pack like in the range of 2KwH for greater autonomy ?
The board dimensions and mast placement are pretty much what you’d expect for a regular kite foil board, and pretty similar to the lift e foil. I think for this early version they will work great, and I can refine for the next board.
I’d like to make a bigger battery, I think I can fit a few more cells into my current case and get it up to 24AmpHours. These batteries aren’t too heavy so I hope they’ll be okay at the the front of the compartment.
Hi,
Did you realize the motor shaft you showed in the link is “splined”? This will limit the propellers that are available to you. I know because I made the same mistake…
Great design, zephyr!
Be aware with the carbon filled nylon. I read somewhere it increases stiffness but reduces the strength. I am getting quite nice prints with nylon 6 copa.
Nice design Zephir! You never wanted to join force in the end? I would still like to talk to you although I’ve seen what a prop will do to fingers and I don’t like the potential of many curious people wanting to see such a thing up close, I think I will wait to see if a jet drive version can be made more efficiently in the future. Not to mention the stupid Canadian regulations.
Anyways you have my number and I’ll be happy to have a little chat if you’re up to it. Cheers and really nice work so far
Has the issue of open vs enclosed prop been sorted out in Canada yet? Last time I was riding up there, my Lift, with the standard duct, was considered an open prop by the marine police (a number of other people confirmed similar experiences)
I don’t think the issue has been sorted out. I heard that there was a transport Canada hearing back in November to discuss modifying the current rules.
I received the motor, esc, and remote from HGLtech last week. My initial impressions are pretty positive. I haven’t had a chance to spin it up yet, hopefully this weekend.
For what it is worth, the packaging the parts came in was excellent. The motor and esc feel very solid and their dimensions match the drawings provided.
The remote feels light and cheap, the case isn’t waterproof, there are holes through it. But the circuits inside may be potted in resin, I will have to open it up to check.
The motor is heavier than I expected. Based on the weight I will need to modify my motor mount. There will a post with the modified design soon.
A few machining mistakes can been seen. The 2" thickness was really pushing the limits of my mill. But it came together pretty well with only a bit of filler needed.
The laminate is one ply on 9oz carbon against the foam, then two plies of 6oz glass. I also added extra carbon around nose.
The compartment is a bit of a mess. I need to trim off all the over hanging material once cured then add more glass.
Lot’s of sanding and finishing to come.
On another note. I finally was able to dial in the nylon-carbonX filament. I’ve had some great prints with it.
The duct (still to be wrapped in carbon)
Thanks! If I were to do it again I would use a plug, or even build the box outside and then bond it in. For now I am going to finish it up with a few more strategically placed pieces of fiber glass. It doesn’t need to be pretty, just to work.
I like your idea of building it outside. Nice round corners to be able to clean easily, then epoxy it into a hole in the foam. You could added threaded inserts behind it to be able to screw things down, like the battery, or the Controller box or hold the hose in place.
Unfortunately this is still an ongoing project. After I first launched it I discovered the lid was not watertight, when my esc and batteries were destroyed. So awhile later I tried again with a backup esc that is much too small, and everything within waterproof cases.
The little esc kept overheating, so I never really got to test it for long enough, but it is short on horsepower, and the board is way to heavy.
Over the winter I have built another board, that is smaller and built to be lighter and much more watertight. And I replaced the esc. I hope this helps with the horsepower.
I’m also planning on adding watercooling, but it will have to be from a reservoir in the board, there is no room in the mast. Hopefully it helps anyways.
