I was replying to Zedman so don’t understand why you think it was you.
A quick Google search would give you the answer but he’s the CEO of OpenAi
I am not using a VESC, just a cheap ESC from rc aircrafts. So I cannot limit the current via software, just by using different props and the 3 settings my remote allows me to choose (currently still using the Flipsky remote, will uopgrade to Bremote Nano soon :-))
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Don’t know if I should start a new thread question or post here due to similarities.
I have similar setup I’ve tried 160amp esc and am getting only 20mins mainly efoiling around trying to pump where my mate has foil drive and he gets easy 40mins.
I then switched to 130amp esc and was getting similar run time as foil drive setup.
But I can’t get up on foil with my Ha980 with this setup where as 160amp esc has heaps of power.
I can only ride a HS1550 foil with 130amp esc
What run Time are you guys getting with your setups with out riding waves. Just efoiling with little bit of pumping.
12s2p with 4AH cells, 900m2 foil I get around an hour playing in waves.
But not efoiling around, but just getting up looking for a wave and surfing, repeat.
I guess distance is more useful as data.
I get around 10km of distance with one set of batteries, probably half on motor, so 5km.
Cool thanks.
I’m trying to achieve same run time as foil drive
MKS 84100 HP
But I do not think the ESC used makes much of a difference.
Your friend just uses less energy.
Reason can be anything, different board, different prop, different foil, less weight, more skilled rider and so on.
If your ESC is actually providing 130a and you cannot get up on foil, you are likely doing something wrong.
If I use my 900cm2 foil and 40l board, I use about 40a maximum to get up on foil, far less when cruising. That is at 85kg.
Foil Drives are speed limited through ERPM, to around 15 km/h but that changes with battery voltage as it drops during use, same with the Manta Foils take off.
I think everyone here has at some stage gone ‘why don’t I get a longer run time’ especially comparing to others, I’ve been there and it started to do my head in.
If there is something wrong and inefficient with your system reducing run time, you would know about it through heat or some limits being hit somewhere, but mostly it is just due to speed, different foil setup or total weight.
You can put all the details into ChatGpt of your setup, foil, weight and either use the details from a logged run or gps and get an assessment on efficiency. ChatGpt is painful at times and doesn’t read logs too well, so log information directly is better.
I use an ERPM speed limit to balance ride time with the max speed needed when punching into wind and messy chop. My first glassy day resulted in half the usual ride time, as I glanced down at my remote and I was doing 27 km/h instead of my usual 15 to 20 km/h without the feedback from the water on how fast I was going.
With my speed limited FD Assist Plus, I could do the same distance on a battery but at different speeds changing the run time.
ChatGpt:
" * If you ride slower than the sweet spot → you spend more time but still cover about the same distance, because efficiency (Wh/km) worsens.
- If you ride faster → you cover the same distance in less time, but again Wh/km worsens, so you still empty the battery in roughly the same distance."
Once you go faster, you blow past the sweet spot.
I think that’s it what you’re saying. With my 160amp setup I’m 95kg he is 80kg I have a Ha 980 on a 80l board 2bladed flipsky prop. I’m riding around a lot faster than him. But with my 130amp I’m on same 80l board on my Hs1550 foil slower and getting better run time. This is my back pack setup must be loosing efficiency due to long 2m 3phase wires.
Now I’m putting battery back inside my board again to get rid of cable. I need to improve my riding and pumping so I’ll try the 130amp on the HS1550 and I have a APF1880.
The main thing is not to worry about it, it is what it is.
I’ve been through all the efficiencies of thicker wires, and on paper, it really doesn’t make a big difference.
There was a post on another site with some new guy wing foiling worried about damage to his foil and efficiency, the best comment was ‘having a bigger lunch is going to impact it more than a a bit of damage to the front wing’.
I’m using the thin 3G2.5 cable to the motor and thought it was a mistake when I designed my system. ChatGpt had kittens when I suggested it, until I asked it what the percentage increase in run time would be with thicker wire and it was only a few percent. It conceded that it wasn’t worth the extra drag and effort.
Never compare to a Foil Drive, they are tuned for the sweet spot of efficiency. I am a bit disappointed as the Assist Plus batteries are supposed to be 12.6 ah, but based on reliable calculations they are only 10.5, and that is 3 different batteries of different ages.
Riding style makes a big difference, I noticed that learning. Good luck with the the new design moving the battery into the board, I hope it goes smoothly and works out well.
I’ve struggled and failed a few times with a basic box on board design, so I’m impressed by any build here, even those with problems.
hi! im also not satiesfied with my runtime. i have a 12s2p battery (p42) and use a flycolor xcross3. Do you think i can do something software wise to extend my runtime? like limiting the amp? or use different throttle levels during my session eg. first 20-70% then 20-90%? Thanks a lot!
All you can really do is limit maximum speed with max ERPM.
With my 14s setup and 6384 I use 23k as ERPM max with 94% as soft.
Another thing is battery cutoff and setting that to get the most out of your battery.
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On your ESC, there is not much you can do.
VESC is much better in that way, since you can limit power output, not only current.
I set mine to 2kW.
So in the beginning you have low current with high voltage and later on current is raised to compensate voltage drop.
On your ESC, if you limit current too much, you will not be able to get up, once the voltage drops.
Sorry, that does not make any sense at all.
The voltage drop does impact motor side performance, otherwise you could ride with empty batteries.
If you take a “normal” ESC and you limit current, you will get to a point where you cannot get up on foil due to voltage drop, but would be able to get up without current limitations.
This is not about free energy, but how you cannot ride your battery down to the same level. I e. without limit, you can get up with 25% battery and with limit you need a 40% full battery to get up.
That is what VESC does better if you limit power. It raises the current limit to compensate voltage drop.
Limiting the power also does not extend battery life by some hidden magic. It actually saves energy by not letting you go beyond a certain level.
If you try to get up foil and you hit 4000w accidentally and then go down to 1000w to slow down and repeat, you use up far more energy compared to just keeping a steady 2000w and slowly getting up to takeoff speed.
You have misunderstood what I meant, I didn’t explain it correctly and will delete it.