A mostly succesful second test (also expensive)

[sat_be]

Yes, it is the one from your link. It has id 11mm, needs to be drilled or reamed out to 12mm.
See here: Fliteboard prop alternative to FR? - #13 by superlefax

[sat_be]

To attach it to an outrunner like 63xx you need some sort of an adapter, this is how I mounted it: Daniels (un)geared inflatable (slowly built) - #55 by sat_be

[Tolson]

Every printed propeller I have tried (including a 3d scanned fliteprop design, volkers, etc) has been a bust. How do you get them to work? I have tried sanding butter smooth (after printing with full walls), painting with epoxy and sanding again, just the raw print file… none of them seem to give me the speed I need.

[windego]

So far I have only tested fixed blades and find with 65161 that pitch 7 is the sweet spot for my setup. I suspect the most folding designs will be worse than the flite prop for efoiling anyway.

[Jan12]

@Tolson

Every printed propeller I have tried (including a 3d scanned fliteprop design, volkers, etc) has been a bust. How do you get them to work?

Something must be wrong at your end.

I tried a lot of them 3-4 of the Volker design and a number of folding ones.

They all worked for me. They were just not durable enough to be worth it.

[Joka]

I used aluminium printing service in China. I had to sand a lot to get them shiny. Ich tried round leading edges and sharp leading edges. For surface piercing application (assist) the sharp edge was better.
Most critical is the surface quality I think

[windego]

I agree surface finish is really important. A rough fdm print is not good.

[javierru]

@Joka

For surface piercing application (assist) the sharp edge was better.

@Jan12

The FD is just much more user-friendly when piercing the water

What can I expect from a prop that is bad at surface piercing?

is it like venting a foil? when the prop goes back on the water it does not get grip at all?

[Jan12]

@javierru

What can I expect from a prop that is bad at surface piercing?

If you have the motor near the board, it takes skill to avoid that.
If it ventilates you lose power, drop lower, it reengages you rise, it ventilates, you drop, like a rocking horse.

Not nearly as bad as foil ventilating.

[Joka]

When the props weren’t sanded as soon as I would touch the surface with the prop , I would lose all thrust and slow down really fast and fall.

[javierru]

@sat_be

Can confirm, my setup is very efficient with a north sonar ha 950 / 750 and a small stab, 14S, FR Motor and a Flite prop. Best I got was 53.3Wh/km @25km/h average speed, 95min, 2 starts.
In my experience, the size and efficiency of the foil comes into play if you run faster, like 30km/h average or more. I still get 60Wh/km @30km/h average. If I run 45km/h consumption goes up to 110Wh/km.

I am starting to get some Kms in my setup, at the time I have 6 batteries down. although I am heavy (95Kg) and my board is also quite big and heavy.
My power consumption is at the moment 120wh/km at 25 km/h I hope it will improve with technique, currently is my goal to stay on foil as much as possible, but I am definitely not an efficient foiler…

@Jan12

Why don’t you use the default values for VESC cutoff?

So far it has worked amazingly (cutoff start 3.4v, end 3.1v per cell), the batteries are 3.4v at the end of the session and the minimum voltage under load was 3.2v per cell, but with the default settings and batteries starting at 4.1v per cell i get 6Ah (260Wh) out of my battery (12s2p Reliance rs50 10Ah 432Wh) is this normal? i am pulling between 2000 and 2500W (83 to 104 W per cell). Battery mooch says the RS50s have 15.5wh at 90W per cell, which would make my battery effectively 372 Wh