For the server power supply you need a big one. I use the 1200w HP. It’s easy to modify to work for our needs.
To make the power supply put out voltage you have to jumper two pins as shown in my picture. The easiest way to hook them in series it to just break one ground pin off. But, then the case on one of the power supplies becomes positive when hooked in series. The case of the other one is negative. So, if you let the cases touch they will both die. You can see how I isolated the cases on my build with left over acrylic from my battery box build.
If I want to get as close as possible to the 50 kmh do you think that the FR engine system is the only solution or is a 65161 120kv also powerful enough?
Even with a very high quality propeller I do not think you will see 50 km/h from a 65161. The motor just dose not have the torque required. maybe aim for 35 km/h. or buy a FR setup . even then you will have a lot of other problems to consider such as your weight , wing size & run time etc. as far as i know 50 is the record that FR has done. He is industry leader he sells to other manufactures & in my opinion the very best. If you build a geared setup you would find the required torque.
Yeah thats why I was asking New Idea!!! (I dont want to go 50 just as near as possible)
My new idea is FR engine kit Gong Veloce m Wing 14s14p Battery and I am 63kg
(Do you now a fast Build with geard setup would be interested?)
Not sure sorry, I am not interested in high speed on water. falling off at around 50 it would feel the same as jumping out of a car doing 50. I stacked water skiing @ 30 knots it hurt ! almost broke my back.
Anyone have a lead on a decent size injection molded battery box. Working on a second build. Injection molded instead of custom built will have the cleanest look. Assuming I can find the right size; battery configuration and hatch size will be determined by the box. Current plan is to have electronics in one waterproofed box and battery in another (waterproofing to be achieved by sealants. Silicone or 4200 to cut down on the bulkiness of commercial waterproof boxes). All inside a waterproof hatch for redundancy, which I assume is what commercial boards are doing? As a reference I’ve been looking at the lift battery pack made by lithos.
Thank you so much @Alexandre, that’s what I wanted, this formula !
Regarding the design I’ll go to make 2 x 6s16p but I want to be able to seal the case and don’t have to touch them/ connect them together. So how can I charge them with one or two 6s charger ? Do I have to install a switch between the two batteries and use it when I charge them separately ?
And last question, do I really need a switch ?
Thank you again !
Hey,
I’ve been looking after this and here is the big problem : when considering injection molding there are tooling cost needed for the mold. Those are pretty high, around 5k$ I think or more depending on the design.
I have designed a custom battery case that fits 14S14P but can also be used for 12S. Actually if more than 10-20 members where interested we can publicly ask for a quote (no profit) and make a group buy. Problem is that I have no idea if people are interested or are willing to group buy it (case is made of : main part where you put the battery, external IP68 connector for up to 16 wires signal - might be used for external BMS charge or CAN bus communication, aluminium engraved top plate, Oring fitted for the case, screws, removable power plug (customizable according to current consumption) and IP68 too, degas valve on the bottom side. Case is 82 mm height too
Thanks for the feedback but coordinating a group and manufacture adds a degree of complication I’m not looking for. If it comes down to it I’ll build one. I figure there is something out there that can be adapted for our use. It’s a matter of finding it, so far I’ve had no luck.
Not sure if it help but this the box I 3d prtined and glassed it. For beter thermal perfomance I embedded ALU shet under the cells, isolated with 3mm thermal silicone pads
BMS is custom made and uses the same charger that comes with lift with all the advanced features and Industry standards protections
I think I can share the box I just need to ask the friend who helped designing the box
Did you break the ground pin on both units cables?
I have bought theese two as well, did you just solder and connect left big pad to right big pad on the second unit?
Is there a way to avoid making the case positive?
I also wonder, is it not enough to drive the icharger with just 12V? Specially here in Sweden i can hook the transformer up with 230V and use it’s full potential?
Just need to break one
Look at specification of the icharger input current
Input max current x input voltage (12v in your case ) = output current x output voltage (6s : 25,2v for exemple)
So if the input current= output current , you will use 1/2 of the potential
