I am planning to start my very first DIY eFoil build. To make sure I don’t miss anything or buy incompatible parts, I wanted to share my beginner checklist and get your expert feedback.
My background & goal:
I weigh 88 kg and I am already a wing foiler. I can fly consistently in a straight line, but I haven’t mastered the jibe yet. There isn’t enough wind in my country, so I want to build this eFoil to maintain my fitness, practice my foiling form, and finally learn how to jibe during windless days.
Here is my planned setup so far:
Board: Gong HIPE 5.5 Inflatable (2023 version with footstraps)
Electronics Box: MAX 430 case (Internal dimensions: 426 x 290 x 159 mm)
Mast: Gong Alu V2 85cm Mast and V2 Fuselage
Front Wings (I already own these): Gong X-Over XXL V2 and Gong Curve XXL
Battery: 13S8P custom pack using Molicel INR21700-P42A (4200mAh - 45A)
ESC: VESC 75200 (Watercooled version)
Motor: Flipsky 65161 (Deciding between 100KV or 120KV)
Remote: Flipsky VX3 (using UART for telemetry)
BMS: JBD Smart BMS (200A continuous / 600A peak)
My main dilemmas right now:
100KV vs 120KV Motor: Given my weight (88 kg) and the fact that I already own XXL wings, which KV rating for the Flipsky 65161 would be a better match on a 13S system? I assume I need more torque to push these big wings, so would 100KV be better? Propeller Recommendation.
Wing Choice: Between the X-Over XXL and Curve XXL that I already own, which one would be better to start with for eFoiling at my weight and experience level to practice jibes?
Cooling on Inflatable: Since I am using an inflatable board, what is the best way to route the water cooling for the VESC? Should I go with a passive water pickup (scoop) near the motor/mast?
BMS Bypass: For this setup, do you recommend running the discharge through the JBD BMS, or should I bypass it and connect the VESC 75200 directly to the battery (using the BMS only for charging/balancing)? I plan to use a 150A-200A fuse on the main line for short-circuit protection.
Antispark Switch Recommendation: I am looking for a reliable antispark solution. Should I go with a dedicated electronic switch (like the Flipsky Smart Antispark 200A/300A) or is it safer to just use a QS8-S connector as a mechanical loop/kill switch?
Motor Connectors (Waterproof Box Pass-through): Since I need to connect the 3 motor phase wires from the outside of the MAX 430 box, what are the best IP68-rated heavy-duty connectors you recommend? Is it better to use something like Chogori/CNLINKO 3-pin connectors, or should I use waterproof cable glands and make the connection inside the box?
VX3 & VESC 75200: Are there any known issues or specific tips when setting up the VX3 remote via UART with this ESC?
3D Printing & CAD Software: I have an Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 3D printer and want to modify some of the existing community designs (like water pickups or mounts). Which CAD software do you recommend for a beginner to easily remix and modify .STL/.STEP parts? Also, which high-strength filaments (like PETG, ASA, or Nylon) do you prefer for water-facing eFoil components?
Any advice, corrections to my plan, or tips from anyone who has transitioned from winging to eFoiling would be highly appreciated!
65161 will have enough torque anyway
I would go 120kV for more speed at the rather low 13S battery voltage
On my inflatable the electronics are in an aluminum box. Normal 75200 flip sky. Touching the water with the bottom of the board (aluminum box surface) every 2-5 minutes is enough cooling. No additional water-cooling at all. Alternatively add cooling fins to the outside of the box.
I personally always recommend to connect the VESC directly to the battery, BMS switching off while VESC is running a motor can damage the VESC and introduces a additional failure point that may leave you stranded
Amphenol SURLOK?
I prefer manual pre charging with a resistor you plug in first, then connect main battery connector → Anti-Spark Module just introduces another failure point
Follow my VESC tutorial for the most part, then just connect VX3 via UART and set control mode to UART
You may find the XXL XOver too big as it will pop out very quickly and if you go over 25kmh it gets a bit squirrelly to ride. I get why you might think you need a lot of motor power coming from wind powered sport but efoiling is a lot easier.
I’m about the same weight and find the smallest L size the best one for me.
Lots of people buy a Fliteboard prop for the 65161 120 round threaded shaft and after a slight mod of reaming out the hole in the prop find it a good solution. Low cost and good performance. Lots of posts here about that.
I would suggest you spend a little more and buy the VX5 remote as it is truly waterproof and has a lot of capability the VX3 doesn’t have.
Hi,
I advise you to switch to a higher battery voltage.
I’m on 14s, but if I were starting now I would switch to at least 16s…The new controllers work great on higher voltage and lower current and lower temperature losses.
The Flipsky 74200 V2 pro version is great - built-in Bluetooth, power button, phase filters…
I actually have 2 inflatable boards
One inflatable where the whole inside is a big aluminum box
That can be seen in the beginning of here: (also the video I recommend to setup the VESC)
That system I can also recommend overall (easyfoil, German based, also on the forum here and may give you a good deal on a board+box)
Another one with bopla boxes, Bopla Euromas, sadly no images rn
use the curve xxl (x over XXL way to big) and try to get a smaller one
i use solar pannel connections for motor cables connections to the box
battery wil be empty quick but ok to start.
propellor flite and dril it to 12mm shaft
i have watercooled vesc 75200 to and run it by hose in nose of motor mount
by me cables go inside the mast and under the board and over the back of the board to the batterybox
no antri spark here , only on heavy duty on/of switch on the box
if possible use VX5 remote
have fun
VX5…I also highly recommend it.
I just got it and have only had two riding sessions…
But its workmanship is impressive, it looks very good and feels comfortable in the hand, even though it is larger than the ones I have ridden with so far.
And yes, they are now completely waterproof.
If you got new (not refirbished) Molicel P42A from nkon, you should be fine just spotwelding them out of the box. I built several packs with p42A,P45B and P50B from nkon. I only checked if volatge was the same, I did not do a capacity test as it takes to much time. My packs are still fine, the oldest one is from 2021.
