Another nice project into the main project.
Many people here might be interested 
If you don’t mind me asking, to what amount did all those elements sum up ?
Around AU$65
- ACS758 current module - $10
- Arduino nano - $15
- UBlox neo-6m module - $15
- MicoSD module - $10
- MPU-6050 IMU - $5
- Prototype board + headers + connectors etc - $10
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Do me a favour and yous a hall current sensor. I used the same module once and I had a nice fire near my battery pack. Wouldn’t recommend the sensor at all. Also hall current sensor are fairly accurate. I can get readings 0,2A± exact.
ACS758 is hall-effect current sensor as far as I knew. Interesting you had a fire with this sensor, has been pretty reliable for me for a number of applications.
yep it is a hall sensor, problem is that the current needs to flow through the part. When you have a split core hall sensor you dont need any soldering and it is much safer, as you dont have a direct connection. This is just my personal expreience.
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Very cool project, great results, I like the simplicity of using outrunners.
You said you’re using a 8384 motor? Did you mean 6384?
One more thing about the prop, which nozzle size you printed with?
How many hours of print?
Thanks!
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Thanks! 
Yes outrunner has been going well so far. Every time after we use it we take it apart, wash in fresh water and spray with WD-40. So far we haven’t seen any major corrosion issues.
Yes that is a typo - 6384 motor is correct.
Prop was printed with a very standard printer (Solidoodle 2) which I believe default nozzle size is 0.4mm. It was around 4.5 hour print.
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Thanks, that’s awesome!
Good luck on your future plans!
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Given your voltage, KV, and prop-pitch, I calculate that you should get a theoretical speed of 19.1 mph; and guessing a real-world speed of 15 mph under load. Does that sound right?
Thanks.
Hey yep that’s what I get for theoretical speed.
We’ve got a very large foil (1900cm2), so it gets foiling at 16km/h (10mph), so haven’t tried taking it faster than that yet.
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Which amps support your ACS758 module?
What are the experiences of the last months? Does the engine run smoothly or has it been worked on?
Motor has been washed in freshwater and sprayed with WD-40 and has lasted well over a year
The bearings did finally go, and the wires corroded between where the regular wires are soldered to the copper windings of the motor
I got a new motor and installed ceramic bearings, and treated the stator with epoxy as per @e-Jetter good instructions.
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Thanks man, very glad things are going well for you, keep on rocking 
Could you share the prop model? I am looking for a suitable prop for 6384 motor. STEP would be great if possible!
What’s your email? I can’t attach those file types on here.
Hi Mickey
I’m in the final stages of a very similar setup like yours: 6384 120kV with 10S battery. I chose the Seashark ESC since it worked in your setup, but got the 200A version for some extra headroom, since it is not a top shelf ESC. It looks like Favourite is out of business, at least the website is down for some time, and it was challenging to find USB Link SW for the ESC. The version I got connects to the ESC via the USB Link adapter and it seems to be speaking with the ESC, returning the firmware version (V3.00_210707), and returning OK when trying to change parameters, but when reading settings, the settings are not changed. Since default throttle is FWD/REV, the motor starts spinning when system is powered up, and stops only when throttle (same as yours) is increased a bit. Which is a useless and dangerous setting.
So the question is: How did you manage to program your controller? I know there is a box programmer available instead of the USB Link I have, but hope the problem lies in the SW (brushless software usb link V1.00) or the FW, so if you have any other versions I would be very thankful to get some tips.
UPDATE! I managed to change to FWD only by using the throttle programming method, listening to the beeps from the motor. Interestingly plugging in the USB Link to check the new settings, it returns the default, which makes me suspect the USB Link isn’t meant for this ESC from Fvt, although Ali sells these two items together.
Programming the other modes like Timing ,Acceleration, Voltage cutoff is a bit more confusing, knowing which mode you have entered and what settings you actually change. Since the beeps doesn’t tell what modes are saved, it is difficult to say if you entered the right mode on all parameters (except rotation settings).
About the settings: Which one did you use?
Hey bbe - yes the 120A model I have does get a bit hot after prolonged use, so hopefully the 200A one will work a bit better for you. (My ESC is fully enclosed in the box with no external cooling - so pretty good that it can get away with that).
It has been a few years since I looked into the ESC’s, and that was the only real low-cost 12S high-amp ESC I could find. I wonder if there are more options now?
I used the throttle programming method, and yes it was quite finnicky.
Good luck with your build 
Thanks!
Yes, it took me a while to figure out (halfway) what settings was activated. According to the manual
https://files.banggood.com/2016/09/FVT-BOAT%20ESC(English).pdf
there are 6 settings, but listening to the “beep” menu it seems to be eight, and the number of choices on each setting seems to differ from the manual on some of the settings. Luckily the Timing is 2nd choice, so “easy” to find. Changing timing has a tremendous impact on the power of the motor. With the setting it came with, I could slow down the motor with my hand. After choosing what I believe is High timing the motor span faster and was way more powerful when touching it. So I figured that was a good setting to test it on water.
There is also a setting no6: Frequency Low/High that could have some effect on performance, but I never managed to figure out if I was in this setting, so didn’t try to change it.
My plan is to use it in the sea, as I dont have good lakes/rivers in my area (Oslo/Norway), but for initial test I needed to do it in freshwater so I went to a tiny lake nearby, about 200 meters across. I havent efoiled before, but have learned wingfoiling this year so know a little about foiling and the speed I usually start foiling. My setup is a Gong Hipe 6’5 170L Wing/Sup board with battery/ESC strapt in the back. The cables to the motor are taped to the trailing edge of the mast, and I needed a hoseclamp on my poorly printed broken mastclamp in PETG (beginner in 3D printing), so quite a lot of extra drag. The initial runs sitting on the board I wasn’t getting speed to get on foil, and me weighting 105kg+ with wetsuit, I figured the motor was probably too small for me. My foil is a 1900cm X-over with good low end and speed should have been enough for foiling, but I could feel the extra drag from the e-foil bits holding me down.
Since I thought I was in High timing, I knew there was a Very High timing available, so I reprogrammed the ESC with the remote on the beach, and to my positive surprise that gave the motor significant more power and the speed was enough to get on foil! It was draggy and poor technique + short runs and low battery made me only make one run in bumpy foiling mode standing. Anyway I consider it a success first run and now is next step to reduce drag by putting cables inside mast and printing a new clamp. I hope the ESC will work long term as it is cheaper and more practical than a VESC, which on 10S is a bit overkill. Since it is waterproof I have mounted it on a alu-plate on top of battery so all electronics is waterproof and gets fresh air for cooling, so if you don’t use the watercooling I should probably not need it either?
Hope to test it next weekend, maybe with a slightly smaller and faster foil to find speed potensial, which I hope to be around 25 km/h with 10S. I chose 10S because I got hold of four 10S batteries with DLG cells which I just put in parallell, but with 120kV motor it might be better to get a 140-150kV motor to get more speed, maybe a 63100 if a faster kV 6384 will be harder to get on foil.
Regarding longevity of this cheap motor: How many times/hours roughly have you used it in saltwater before failing?
Hi all, thanks for your interest in my build
I’ve done a new post on “Mk II” with several improvements
- Folding prop
- Better attachment of battery box to board with “3M Dual Lock”
- Hydrodynamic cable guide for the mast
- Reliable water-proof remote control
- Water-proof treatment of 6384 motor
- Bigger battery
I also some discuss some future ideas including
- Active stabilisation
- Latching motor mount
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