When @baein referenced the Magpul, he was talking purely about the grip, it had nothing to do with the trigger or trigger design. There was no need to jump down his throat about the trigger.
You are forgetting everybody’s hands are different sizes. This trigger design may suit @baein perfectly and add safety to his setup. He’s in no way required to add safety to your setup though. DIY is about doing what suits each individual…
Let me try to explain it again. There is no free space in the trigger guard. Let’s say you put your finger on the trigger guard and you don’t intend to start the movement. But as soon as I clap my hands above your ear, if you don’t expect it, your hand will reflexively clench and you will start the motors. I can admit my own wrongness at any moment if I hear arguments. Can you reasonably object to the example above?
Temporarily unbanned Konutz.
Here’s a memory pill for you. Once upon a time, a troll asked a very important KONUTZ to make a video of himself riding a tow boogie. Very important KONUTZ promised, but of course he didn’t. And then something terrible happened. The troll had the nerve to write the following: “Allow me to remind you of my request.” Unheard of nerve, no wonder very important Konuts went into hysterics and started screaming that he was being forced to make a video. I have a question: if you manipulate, change names and publicly complain that something is being demanded of you, when in fact you are being asked, then who among us is a troll?
@ludwig_bre I found some videos about a v2 nano on your channel!
Though I’m missing a display, it looks fantastic!
It indeed looks so good, that i would like to adopt it for my new build
Can you already tell us, when the the nano will be released?
It is probably too late in the development and I guess buttons are not really easy to waterproof.
But for starting as foil assist on a small board, I would lave to have a button you have to hold to lock the current throttle value.
That way you could accelerate with the normal throttle and once you are up to speed you just hold the extra button, i.e. in the palm of your hand, while getting up on the board.
Hey, some “Simple” ideas to improve V2 display ergonomics, probably already thought about?
In main “active” display, use the available vertical bar besides vesc temp and battery to display throttle 0-100%
Use the middle horizontal bar to display the steering input, flash the central light when in neutral steering, then use the 3 dots each way to display the steering effect from -100 - 100%
Use the second lowest horizontal bar (above the RRSI bar) to display battery %
Sorry if not clear, I mean the remote battery.
I use the remote on the tow boat that I also ride as a boat with family, with rides at trolling speeds that can last 3-4h. Just a way to have the info without restarting the remote. Also cruise control would be nice for this use.
I had a servo failure on the tow, and having a feedback on the remote could help diagnose immediately what could be wrong with the boat and react quick. If you have signal, and the remote feedbacks throttle/steering signal being transmitted, you can rule out remote inputs failure. Same idea for throttle.
The boat was far and into a channel with other boats, I could not see if the steering had any effect.
I think adding all this will make the display too cluttered but I will try
Anyways maybe some information/tips that also help:
Internal battery lasts 40-60h on one charge. So as long as you start with more than 3.7V you should be good even for 4-5h rides
To debug inputs, if you have locking or gears enabled: If you apply throttle you should not be able to switch gears. If you can’t, throttle is read correctly. If you don’t apply throttle and can switch gears the steering still works correctly.
Backwards compatibility if you did not fill the remote with potting material or keen enough to Dremel and pick out parts of it again… otherwise new TX with the GPS included is needed. Rx is fully compatible
I2C gyro can be connected to the bus thats already there
In fact V1 remote had acc/gyro onboard. Was never used so I removed it on V2
According to a friend working for a big efoil company most prop injuries come from feet below board and throttle engaged btw, not falling and getting close to prop.
In a foil assist situation, with the motor close to the board, it seems possible, but pretty hard to do.
The few problematic situations I had, were when I was falling and still holding the trigger or more frequently, when I was falling and the trigger was activated by water pressure.
I will see if I can figure out something this winter.