Chatch E-Foil Build #1

I have started collecting parts.

Motor: Flipsky 120kv w/ 12mm threaded shaft. Also ordered their 12mm aluminum prop since it’s just $27
Prop: will experiment with different 3D prints compared to aluminum prop
Controller: Maytech
ESC: Flipsky 60v 200A potted VESC 6.6
Battery: 12S, 1kWh minimum. 2S2P 6S 10,000mAh lithium polymer is the first thought.
Water pump: undecided. Brushless preferred

Board: undecided
Foil: undecided

Everything is ordered besides battery, water pump. I am checking a board/foil out in person next week at a store.

skip the pump, you can put a tube in the Front oft the Motor pod and use preasure from speed.

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About skipping pump. Is it effective at low speed?

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The foil? I think it is suitable. I am looking at this one:

No sorry for confussion. I was replying the previous comment about skipping water pump

I wouldn’t trust it without making a “funnel” to grab more water and force it through faster venturi-style

It is… It doesn’t flow like crazy at very low speed but it still flows plenty! It is now well accepted to use water-cooling without a pump. All you need is a small inlet on the nose cone and you’re all set!

I will try that, easy to add a pump later

This is an example of the build I have in mind. Great minds think alike! Czech republic Efoil second project - Builds -

The motor, ESC, aluminum prop, bluetooth ESC programmer have shipped. I have already received the Maytech remote control, along with a 1 meter long U.FL extension and a quite nice looking flat (F style?) antenna with a plastic housing and 3M double-sided tape.

Have you seen 3d models available on the forum jet? I can only find the ones suited for pumps.

They are certainly files out there with a hole for a watercooling hose. If you can’t find any, just drill a hole in your nose cone and place the watercooling hose in it. You don’t need anything more than that! 1/4in tube works pretty well and has enough flow without a pump. Bigger diameter would work even better!

Today I purchased a carbon fiber board with deep tuttle, volume should be 60-70L.
I compared the size in store to the Lift efoil, they are identical volume… Including depth, length and width.


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I have received more items

I will begin modeling the components and acquire Mast, Fuse and Foil.

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I have purchased more items.

I decided to go with the NAISH Windsurf foil with 70cm mast. Windsurf is good for deep tuttle which is positioned towards the rear of the board. 2019 Thrust | Windsurf Complete

My goal is to have removable mast assembly, will see if that is possible.

Today the order shipped. Tomorrow I will receive some PETG filament to experiment with on the 3D Printer. I have ABS, TPU and PP - PETG is new to me, although it seems very simple to print with. I hope I can get away with ABS for the prints I am doing, but preparing for the “worst” and making sure I can print PETG as needed. My goal is to use TPU to reduce shock, while using ABS for rigidity. I will have to design the parts to take advantage of shear strength perpendicular to the print direction.

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I have received more items

I decided to throw my old 3D printer into the garbage. It served 22,000 hours print time over the last 7 years.

-I received new 3D printer. I am tuning PETG, currently success for print. Next, I will test water permeability and sealing methods using the acetone slush, as well as Annealing with Sous Vide hot-water method.

-I received PETG clear color, better for tuning print settings

-I Received NAISH Windsurf Abracadabra

I will begin to order Cable Gland and Pelican Box next.

I will also begin to model the e-foil to provide a basis for retrofitting the motor, mast and Pelican Box

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I have finished tuning PETG filament - good looking parts, strong layer adhesion, dimensionally accurate.

For example, printing this part is possible:

A great performing propeller. Later, I will focus on a propeller for the water.

For now, I will draw the Naish branded parts. I will use a simple B-spline, you may be interested to read more here: Universal Airfoil Parametrization Using B-Splines

I have scanned the mast, very easy - 110mm chord length is the only dimension I need, measured using cheap calipers.

These measurements exactly reflect what the $5 calipers measure. Old Trick: measure inside of the hole, zero caliper. Measure outside distance between holes. Now you have center distance.

About half an hour to make the Abracadabra part.

Beware that the Abra plate is not compatible ‘as is’ with an efoil use because of the wires between mast plate and board hull. Therefore the hinge idea.

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