I would say more. It’s a TE Kilovac relay.
Thanks for the pictures ! You think you can get a model number, brand or whatever useful for the BMS ?
Wait you mean you have another battery pack ? 
I meant figuratively speaking, haha. I am swimming in batteries as it is.
BMS is Staff Systems LLC
Model 1030M
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There is a 300amp fuse between battery and relay.
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Weird, I don’t find anything on this company on the web. I mean I’ve found Staff systems, but this is certainly not the good one 
Ok I got it !
It’s Stafl systems :
1030M is certainly a custom made model coz it’s not listed on their website. Now we know a reputable company where we can buy our 14S BMS even if it’s priced 200$ it’s proven to work !
So good !
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That’s a pretty big fuse 
.
If you take a closer look, each cell is connected with a part acting as a fuse wire. Which leads me to think, not only they are protecting each cell individually but also certainly the bms.
That’s a pretty nice battery we have there !
Also, what’s your opinion on the bonding method they used on top and bottom part ? Would you say it’s glued or kind of melted together ?
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That USED to be a pretty nice battery until someone butchered it! haha…
@foilmore - If you can save the case, it will fit perfectly in your new board.
I found this website. But not the exact model. It may have been custom made for lift
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Geez we posted it at the exact same time 
. Thanks !
Hopefully we can help lot of people now with good quality BMS !
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Ha ha… I think you posted it first. I must have missed it while I was researching
300A for the fuse because they work with heat ( amp) vs time , so over rating will assure life operating
It is all in data sheet
Just like over rating a bit bms , fuses cells …
I used a 200A which go pretty warm with 140A continious
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LOL. I wish I did that last top cut a little more carefully like the first 3 now. Very glad to hear this sucker will fit in my board. I am going to try to save the case. The compartment will be 85mm deep, right? I think all my cuts were clean enough that I can pretty easily seal it up with some 3M windo-weld urethane after I decide how I want to rewire for future charging/discharging. I am going to start shopping for a new BMS, but I may just solder up new balance leads and figure out a want to pass them through in a water proof way. I don’t think these little ribbon cables are going to work for me.
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I posted that shot of the edge where I cut through. I am pretty certain it was fused together with heat. It really wanted to melt and fuse back together when the saw blades got too hot.
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Enclosure is 89mm deep (3.5"). I checked recently and all Lift components will work on the board. Plug & pray 
Yes, it is Stafl for sure. Hard for my old eyes to read in the dark garage. I am reading up on their stuff, looks like it would be minimum of 700 + 280 to go the 12s route with these guys. If I am reading it right, their off the shelf system would actually require two monitor units for 14s. We are talking well over 1k for this BMS.
The more I look at the more I am impressed. It gives me a lot more respect for what Lift put together and their justified price point. Before opening this up, I thought $3,500 was pretty hard to justify for an unserviceable case with 196 cells in it.
Any CAN 2.0B experts in here? I will wait to hear if anyone has any advice on diagnostics with the BMS before I unhook much else.
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Question is where do they get it? Is it a custom made fuse? Just wondering because i couldn’t find anything rated for 60v 300a.
can you take a closer look from those bigger chips on PCB?
they are using contactor instead of mosfets which has its own pro’s and cons. Contactors tends to wear out and melt and short over time but thermal management is easier.Fets instead have longer life span and much better protection against inductive loads and current inrush. The amount of the cables going around in the box is crazy! Coming with years of background in EV battery industry this is super labor intensive product. Plus not sure what is the material of the box but in these power ranges, without proper heatsinking cells, to at least the enclosure means cells are either always run at the border of maximum temperature or they just let them overheat in expense of reduced life time of the pack
@samisin Would love to hear more of your thoughts on this board. I will pull those numbers and get more pics when I can. It looks too fancy for me to even want to try to spend the time to get it working without the lift esc or charger. I gave it a quick look, but didn’t see any obvious burned/melted components. It seems this BMS system does monitor the battery temps on each series, so perhaps that was part of their plan. Everything else is so well done I would be shocked if they didn’t think of the cells overheating in the sealed enclosure.