Deep Root's eFoil Build

Hello from Portland Oregon!

First off I want to thank everyone posting on this site. Nice to see a community dedicated to eFoil builders. I spent hours and hours doing research and looking at everyone's builds. Thank you all for your detailed posts.

In the spirit of the community and helping others I’m posting my build with all the files. Hopefully this information will help someone on the quest to fly above the water. My build took about 10 months. It was a slow build but an excellent way to escape covid and stay save at home. I’m edited I just got to ride the eFoil. I tested the board 3 times now and it’s a blast to ride. It easily foils at low speed/amps. Battery lasts about 1hr 20min.

Below are the build details including files:


I designed the board using AkuShaper Software (free). The shape of the board is similar to the Standard Fliteboard but I modified the shape with a square nose on my design.

Length: 165.51cm
Width: 66.14cm
Thickness: 11.22cm

EPS Foam Blank: I sent the shape file to Green Light Surf Supply and they cut the blank and shipped it to me. (I still had to shape the rocker.)

AkuShaper Software (free):

Shape File:

Epoxy Resin - Resin Research Slow / 1.5 Gallon
Glass Schedule - JPS 7oz Volan, JPS 10ox Volan

Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Spray Paint - Matte Farmhouse Black
Rust-Oleum Glitter Spray Paint - Midnight Black
Rust-Oleum Universal All Surface Spray Paint - Dead Flat Clear

Gasket - Mold Star 30 (3d printed a silicone mold)
Acrylite Resist 65 High Impact Acrylic

Deck Grip:
EVA Foam Sheet


Flipsky 65161 - 120KV
Motor Mast Mount - 3d Printed PETG filament

Fliteboard Propellor - $45 (Had to drill out on drill press with 12mm drill bit). Easy modification and prop works excellent!

Gong Foil - Allvator Carbon - Size Large 77cm
Gong Mast - 90cm

12s12p - Samsung Q30 18650
DIY Spot Welder
200 Amp Fuse x 2
ISDT Q8 Battgo Lipo Battery Balance Charger - Connected to an old PC Power Supply

Maytech MTSKR1905WF IP67 Waterproof Esurf Remote

Files: (3d Print STL’s & BRD Shape File)
Google Drive -

Let me know if you have questions about the build. I will post a parts list and cost of everything soon.


- Benjamin


what a work :clap:t2::clap:t2::clap:t2::clap:t2:

I love how you setup the battery! Discharge as one! Charge as two! I used to rock the 18650 cells myself but found the 21700 cells to be much cooler and more performant. I went from 50 minutes ride time to almost 2 hours. If you make another pack consider them!


Would love to know your rough cost of the build.

Thanks! I wanted to make the board as thin as possible. I wish I had room for 21700 cells. I am making a 2nd battery using 144 Molicel P26A 18650 2600mAh 35A cells. I’m curious to see how they perform compared to the Q30. Half the cost of the Q30’s :grinning:

I would like to know also! haha. I’m going to compile a parts list with cost of all the items soon. Keep you posted!

I really like your build. Very nice looking. Congrats. A couple of questions.

  1. You obviously joined sections of gasket mold together before pouring the silicone to make one continuous piece. How did you glue the gasket to the board?
  2. What is your hatch made of? It looks flush with the board but your hinge set up does not look recessed? The clearance from gasket to the board surface looks small. My biggest struggle was my hatch system. My second build will have latches with hinges. Any new ideas the better for me!

What config did you use for your 21700 pack? Im planning on doing two 7s12p packs but was think maybe going to 13p? Any links to your batt build?

I too would love to read more about your battery - can you tell us which plugs you used and where you bought them from?

I would like to know how you made the area for holding the electronics / battery.
Did you use a (small?) milling machine?
If so, did you glass the board 1st, and than milled the area, and than a final glass layer?
Also. Some pictures of how you did this would be great!

same question here, its difficult to glass such shape as the recess of the hatch, especially on top using the foam as a plug. In a mould a bit easier but anyway sharp edges always though to get nice especially without vacuum bagging.

  1. I used GE Advanced Silicone. 100% Silicone Indoor/Outdoor from the hardware store. 100% silicone sticks very well to the Moldstar 30 and paint.

  2. I actually ditched the hinge and cam latch setup. I was having an issue with water getting in. So I epoxied in 18 T-Nuts (under the silicone gasket) and screw the hatch down. It takes a bit longer to setup but it’s well worth it. It’s 100% waterproof now. Photos below.

Connectors are Amass AS150:
The connectors fit inside this Water Proof Cable Connector:

I use the same water proof cable connector for the 3 motor wires.


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I glassed the inside of the hatch first. Then did the top side of the board the next day.

The larger your corner radius the easier it will be the glass. Mine is 2". It was actually easy to do and this was my first time working with fiberglass.

I used a router with this long bit to cut out the inside. It worked well but took some time as it’s only 1/4 wide. HFS Extra Long Solid Carbide End Mill, 4 Flute, 1/4" Shank


Thank you for the info.
My dad and I are going to build a new jetboard this winter (version 3).
I’m at this moment getting as much info as possible.

Thanks. Great handcraft in any case :+1:

hello , thank for sharing all those info , as far i’m concern , in the build the dark point will be the battery pack , what a job , looking forward to see some action shoot .

what is the small motor inside the grey box ?

Waterpump for cooling ESC!

Greate work.
I want to use the same motor… can you give us a link of the VESC are you use please ?

Thanks a lot

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