Very nice build!
I imagine there is a gasket between the aluminum plate and the board.
For the gasket, did you end up making one? Or did the board come with one?
The gasket come with the board. It is 100% waterproof. No Water insight the board. I’m very happy with this system.
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Whats the internal size under the hatch (battery room)
The internal size is 305x390x80mm
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Amazing looking duct, mind sharing the files?
Regarding the topic of mounting a non-Fliteboard mast to a Fliteboard:
I’m in contact with a guy in Portland that might be able to make a custom one-piece adapter to mount an Axis mast to a Fliteboard. The part would have a collar for the Axis mast and will eliminate the need to use an Axis baseplate.
This will hopefully save a lot of weight.
It looks like the cost is going to be around $200 and he might be able to do versions for other mast brands.
Let me know if anyone else is interested in such an adapter piece. There might be some economies of scale advantages for making multiple pieces.
How far from the back of the board is your mast on this setup?
It is the duct from robert.
I got many questions about the files.
That’s the reason that i make a oneDrive-Folder with all the files you need. There are the dxf-files and a stl for the aluplate, stl-files for the accu-box and a parts list.
I put the construction-data from Fusion 360 inside that everybody can make his own adjustments.
I hope that i will help to build your own DIY Fliteboard.
If you have any questions, please write it inside the thread, because it will help to get a good documentation for new builder.
Here is the OneDrive-Link:
Fliteboard
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Marcel.
Thank you for all your help!
My dad and I ordered a Fliteboard some weeks ago (the PRO Fibreglass 67 liter version)
When we ordered it, they charged an extra €225 for transport!
Funny thing is that the distribution center is about a 20 minutes drive from here (Amsterdam), and luckily we could pickup the board at the distribution center.
This this saved us €225 
By the way. The people working at Fliteboard are really cool, and they really respect us DIY’ers!
Anyway. We have been shopping around for a person who could CNC this baseplate for us.
(Even Marcel offered to do it for us)
After a lot of search work we found several, but the cheapest (for us) is PCBway
Total costs for the baseplate including Anodizing is $89 US.
I’ve also been playing with a new design, but CNC’ing it for this is $360 US.
Total weight is 1.2KG, and shipping price not included.
Obviously we are not going for this!
We decided to go for a 12S9P battery pack (with BMS in it for charging).
Cells used are Samsung T40 batteries.
When we start the build I will start a separate thread about this.
~Kian
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89usd, not too bad but depending on complexity and size… what was the baseplate design?
Have a look at the 1st post.
Picture 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.
Also 3rd post.
The aluminium size needed is 212x146x15mm
Try removing 3 holes on the side and get a quote again.
You can drill them by hand afterwards.
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I did. It’s about the same price.
I think it’s the height what makes it pricy.
Build the walls for the box from Acetal which could be machined on a hobby cnc (if you have one). The walls don’t provide any structural strength so could be a number of materials just bolted to an alu base for heatsink.
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Unfortunately we do not have a CNC, but I was thinking about 3D printing the “walls” with PETG and filling the printed box later with potting.
Heatsinking will be done by the baseplate, the big mast underneath it and water running through the CNC’ed channel
Another method is to print, then take a silicone mold of the print, then use a hard urethane molding resin into the silicone mold. Way stronger than a 3D print…
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Cross link:
I continue to look for a good used 100 litre Fliteboard as I’m interested in replicating what you and others are doing.
I’m asking about the water channel aspect of what you are planning. A few questions:
Why do you feel that the plate needs this?
How are you planning on getting the water into and out of the channel in your build?
Hi.
The water channel is definitely 100% not needed.
My dad and I did some static testing, and had the throttle wide open (WOT) for around 5 minutes.
The max temperature we measured was 38c
This is with adopter plate version from @vincent where the FETS are touching directly the aluminium plate. (not mounted in the box as @MBard did.)
We later did some real eFoiling testing (moving), and had again absolutely no heating issues.
We ordered both @vincent and @MBard from PCBway as this was for us the cheapest way to get it CNC’ed.
This winter we might do another Fliteboard setup, and use the “not used” plate to compare things.
- So… How does the water channel work (my theory)
You will need to drill a small hole in the nosecone of the motor mount.
Because of forward motion and pressure buildup, the water will be pushed up through one of the channels in the mast.
The front water channel in the place lines up with the front channel in the mast, so the water will enter here. (need to drill a small hole in the Gong mast plate)
The back channel in the plate is just next to the mast, and water will exit here (I believe you will need to drill a small hole here in the Gons mast plate)
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