Hello everyone
I come to you because this great forum was recommended to me. I found great info and tried to sum it up here. I am a complete beginner so if this parts list sees wrong, could you please tell me ?
DIY faux Drive Assist (12S setup):*
Flipsky Parts
Flipsky 6384 Waterproof Brushless Motor (140KV)
Flipsky FSESC 6.6 (VESC-based ESC)
Flipsky VX3 Waterproof Remote
Flipsky 4.8-Inch Folding 2-Blade Propeller
XT90-S or QS8 Anti-Spark Connectors
Waterproof Enclosure Box (Flipsky or generic)
Non-Flipsky Parts
12S Li-ion Battery Pack (e.g., 12S3P or 12S4P, 44.4V, 10–16Ah)
Smart BMS (included with most battery packs)
8 AWG or 10 AWG High-Amp Silicone Wire
Heat Shrink Tubing (various sizes)
Waterproof Cable Glands or Feedthroughs
Marine-grade Switch or Kill Switch (optional for safety)
Motor Mount (CNC or 3D printed, compatible with foil mast)
Marine Sealant (e.g., 3M 5200) for waterproofing box entries
Charger (compatible with 12S Li-ion battery, ~50.4V output)
Not an expert, but this is pretty much exactly what I’d go for. I built a tow boogie with the same motor, and here are some thoughts:
Get a decent soldering iron and accessories, and a wooden jig, as soldering with a bad setup is very difficult. Try to get pre-soldered parts wherever possible. I’ve gone 12AWG on most of my wiring with the same setup, and it has been fine, soldering 8AWG looks tedious, but probably worthwhile. I’ve used Quick Solder Connectors for anything other than battery and phase wires, they are really easy and fast.
I guess you’ll likely also need some way of cooling the setup, I am doing a passive heat sink cut through the side, but I don’t know how well that will work for your faux drive. Without it after about an hour my 6384 at 12S with 2 blade is up towards 100c or more. You can probably just add this later.
Hi, man I am working on my list too, will share it in the next week. Waiting for the second reply from Saite to see in which configurations they have waterproofed 6384.
I have a couple of questions is there any particular reason why you went with FSESC 6.6 and not the newer one:
Also did you talked to them about the option of getting the motor with AWG 10 leads instead of 12 they have specified on the website. The guy from the sales team told me yesterday that could be an option
I will most likely be calling them tomorrow morning with a help of Chinese speaking friend. I’ll try to ask as much as I can also diagram for you (if they can provide)
…After a suggestion from the community user on my build post
… I also not sure anymore if 12S is a good idea considering it can peak up 50+ V which can be lethal if hits the fun. Foil Drive is using 11S (you can go to their website and find max battery it has specs printed right on top of it), so I am debating whether to stay with the 10S-11S range.
I currently have FD Gen2 HP motor (6384) and at 70kg can flatwater start 27l 4’4 18* board relatively easy with 12 AR 1000 cm foil (even at ~15% battery). And if there is a mini wave it takes 2-3s even without a boost mode. So I guess loosing 10% of power output would really not be such a problem for most of the people.
But at least on paper the V range output 10S 36-42 V or 11S 40-46 V is still below 50V, after all, we want to have fun and stay safe out there
Making my own batteries. Bought a kweld. Let’s see if it ends up in a mess or the prop will spin at the end of the day
Watched heaps of videos. She’ll be alright
… good luck, I would maybe do some on the future builds, but would start looking for some people in the EU that already build them for some time. If you happen to know someone, please share the contact info
hits the fun. Foil Drive is using 11S (you can go to their website and find max battery it has specs printed right on top of it), so I am debating whether to stay with the 10S-11S range.
(respect)
Be careful, step after step…and everything will be fine 
)