@jeffM, To fill it with corrosion x, do you open it from the propeller end?
dang son, that’s not a cheap prop! Please review once you ride it some
Yes, you need to open the motor at the rear.
You can find the procedure on the forum, I don’t remember where.
A lot of Efoil builder did that
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The test Today => Sucess 
I tested for 1 hour with no problem.
max temperature of VESC 37 ° C, very happy with the cooling without pump.
I installed a new antenna on the nose, under the pad, for a better reception
Because with this small board, there is too many water on the center of the bord when I start
I am a little disappointed with the FR prop, it is more powerful but consumes more
: mini 23A, and it’s too loud for me.
I’ll try again tomorrow, with less wind
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1st Rescue yesterday 
due to a stupid fuse holder conception and a nut forgotten on the fuse holder
everything is fixed now 
I saw an Efoil takuma yesterday at Monteynard (rental E-Foil)
it’s really big and not very handy
the result of a loose connection
stupid idea to print a fuse holder
and I forgot this nut
fixed with a commercial fuse holder
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My opinion, things like that should be bought from a good company and not build DIY.
I am using in my builds Marine resettable fuses 150A on the Battery side.
I use them also as on/off switch.
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you’re right that’s why i say it was a stupid idea.
I also use Marine resettable fuses for my last E-foil, but for this build, I wanted to test a fit conception.
On this issue, the root cause is the forgotten nut, the connection loosened and there was heating, the plastic melted and isolated a terminal. there was no electric arcing, the fuse is ok. just a melted plastic.
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1H09, 21km battery at 40% after the session
happy with this autonomy.
No PB with the new fuse holder after 3 sessions
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Use exactly the same holder/fuse. Used a 150A fuse in the beginning, in combination with a Flier ESC (no possibility to limit the current). The 150A fuse burned after some time in choppy water. With VESC and 100A battery current limit, the 200A fuse holds.
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Looking good! I have a similar setup and I’m using the 150A fuse, which holds up good with the vesc limited at 130A.
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I haven’t posted for a while. I shaped some foil pocket boards
My last session with my V4, today
Ebron ( lake Monteynard)
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Congrats, looks very professional.
Q1: How is the process different compared to the V4 efoil board ? Foam core, fabrics layers ?
Q2: Will you make your efoil boards this way from now with tinted resins ?
Q3; Any picts of the different steps ?
Same construction like my V4, 3 cabon layer below and 2 above.
and I finished with sanded colored resin. and a epoxy coating.
core “styrodur”, KFBox in with 2 airex 20mm
Construction under vacuum. board weight : without pad 1.2kg 
height : 85cm
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Q2: Will you make your efoil boards this way from now with tinted resins ?
Yes, because it’s more easy for a perfect finishes
Q3; Any picts of the different steps
no sorry
Hi @jeffM , Congratulations on your work, I think many of us follow your progress.
I have 3 questions:
1.- The antenna that you take out of the mast together with the battery connectors is the FLIPSKY VX3 antenna, you place it under the carbon fiber throughout the deck, right?
2.- What is the TRAMPA nrf wireless dongle for? I get the impression that you program the VESC via USB. Is it to be able to configure after potting?
3.- Is the wiring between TRAP dongle / Usplit / FLIPSKY VX3 simple / intuitive?
If you answer, thank you very much, and if you do not see the message, thank you very much for all your work, it is very graphic and it is a great help.
Greetings
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Hi
1-My first antenna was under the carbon, but it was too short
so I added an other antenna under the pad
2- for program the VESC with my phone
3- yes it’s easy you have all the schematics with the usplit, but you need to redo some cables
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I ask you for a hand i’m following jeff’s first wiring diagram i managed to make it work, but now it doesn’t work anymore. I’m lost! where I am wrong I hope it is a stupid mistake and that I have not done damage to the bms, where I am focusing the suspicions on the malfunction. When I start the bms it locks up when I turn it off you hear the kilovac release. I disconnected everything else in preventive mode. If you are patient, I also made a video.
https://youtu.be/y-ciJlE9zk0
Thanks I hope for some help
Well done amazing job !!! I going trough my project at the moment and I got couple of idea from your build !! Thanks
Why do connect red cable all the way from the last row of cells ?
Do you do the same of the black side ?
I m building a 12S10pm by divided in 2 so no bms for charging/discharging and I used my RC charger for 6S
Here some comments . By the way, your video is private, at least was not able to open.
" When I start the bms it locks up when I turn it off you hear the kilovac release". If wired correctly believe the kilovac should be activated by the main switch, disregarded of BMS function? Can see a auto fuse of 150 A. Is that Blue Sea or other quality brand? If not, its probably a crappy clone doing more harm than good… you already have another fuse according to the picture?