I am currently considering purchasing one of the VESC 6’s too…
My idea is to CNC a similar aluminium housing to the one it comes with - but instead leaving some extra thickness, and then drilling holes through it lengthwise so that I can pipe water directly through.
Have you made much progress with the mineral oil method so far?
Hi, you can simply screw the VESC 6 to a water cooled plate. That should work just fine. I would not drill holes into the casing. There is a firmware available (and included in VESC-Tool) that allows you to raise the Amps up. For startup you can draw 120-140A. Continuous 80A should be no issue if water cooled.
However, we will soon see a 16S 250A rated VESC, and a 12S 350A rated VESC. Those VESC will also allow higher ERPMs. Perfect for Hydrofoils, Motorbikes and other high power applications.
Those VESCs will still need some time for evaluation and testing, but i’m optimistic to see them in production around July/August this year. prototypes will be tested very soon. After successful testing we will have a beta batch on pre-order. Stay updated and visit our website once in a while… I will announce the new VESC releases on this forum as soon as we have a realistic timeline.
TLDR: You will not fry a VESC 6, as long as you define reasonable temperature cutoffs in the software. If you glide at 50-80A, and use 120A for startup, you should be totally fine.
If you can mount the VESC SIX to a piece of aluminium with a big surface or even ad water cooling, you can keep it a lot cooler and push it harder. All those tests are without any additional cooling.
My setup is 12s 100A, I already have an appropriate motor. I am planning to buy this esc. I also plan to fabricate custom cooling for this one so cooling wont be much issue ( I hope). Does anyone have experience with this esc? Would this be an overkill (400A) or is it best to be on the safe side. Any opinions and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
ahh. thats the one i bought, aquastar esc 240a, still haven’t ran it yet, had to pause things for winter, (work commitments) i might take off the shrink wrap take a look at possible extra cooling ideas,keep me posted,… any ideas on a amp meter, looked at a few, would be nice to get a live display in real time,
If you just want a display connected to your battery box, i recommed the “TF02”(search for Tf02 battery gauge), i think i use the 50V 50A type, it can also measure up to 100A with the delivered shunt. It can be used as a gauge, counting up and down the used Ah. The shunt is calibrated well and i used it right out of the box.
It holds the last measured capacity even when switched off completely.
I glued the screen into the top of my battery box:
Do not use the TF01N, it is too small to read it and the buttons for programming are on the front side where you cannot reach them while it is mounted.
To avoid the shunt, you can look into an hall sensor version… I bought one, 100V 100A (better stay close to max value for avvuracy) works just fine. Or, the wattmeter by Hobbyking… That’s cool to… China-shunt, if you read well, are rated 200 but continuous 60A, so…
Its the best i found for money so far. No networking.
72A max. you can easily attach cooling. I use forced air so far.
Isabellenhütte has some very good products.
If you have good personal experience with a product, please post it.
I’ve done it with a Vesc 4.XX and it blew up. The oil was usually used for cooling computers, ultra low electrical conductivity but it blowed anyway.
It should be the same for the Vesc 6.
I finished my version for the VESC6 for in-thruster application. I am looking for beta testers (you have to purchase one) if anyone is interested. This should be able to perform at a very high level, while avoiding common ESC problems like overheating and overcurrent.
What about Sabvoton ebike controllers? There are few 150A for 300-400$ with shipping. Comes with lcd, current limit, phaze current limit, cruise, hall sensor etc, at hefty 2.2kg. Not sure is it tessted well.