But does it work if you plug in a less than full pack, say a 12s pack at 42V charge? That could be a full 10s pack.
f it doesn’t then the low volt can’t be trusted and it’s a stupid functionality, the pack voltage is anyway divided down from full voltage for adc measurement, so you might as well set the full pack undervoltage level with a single parameter setting.
This is exactly what i’m worried about. I cant see any way of the SC knowing if the pack is fully charged or not and how many cells. It seems crazy not to just have a simple total pack lower voltage value. Will have to make sure i never run a pack that isn’t 100% charged.
not so sure, because the pack are in series. which mean the voltage of the overall pack is the same as the voltage of individual packs.
I checked the firmware for one ESC that did this. It assumed at least 3.8v per cell for the calculation on power up, if that helps.
Where did you find this?
Where the telemetry logic is described as
If voltage is available the cell voltage average is calculated for 3S,4S,5S,6S,7S,8S,10S and 12S batteries. 10 seconds after power on the number of cells is autodetected. Average cell voltage to be >3.8v for correct cell count.
Might not be relevant input, if so you must have me excused. 
In the blheli src code they use some lipo cell calculations continously using the adc, with limits defined somewhere. If someone has the patience with assembly, I’m trying to quit. Piece of work that one.
https://github.com/bitdump/BLHeli/blob/master/SiLabs/BLHeli.asm
@Etiennebzh can you share your current full config to run the hv3 with 6384 motor?
Also, did someone tried the Flipsky Model:FSESC 12200 that looks the same but more powerful for 20 bucks more?
What are y’all running for your temperature protection setting? I currently have mine set at 85C, but every now and then I’ll hit that and it’s usually at the worst time, so wondering if people are going hotter without any issues.
My config with android Blheli app
Max acceleration 0.2% to have the smooth ramp up like foildrive and no issue if you press the trigger involuntarily.
What are you using to connect to Bluetooth on the esc?
I don’t have any Bluetooth, I use a USB chip with a phone adaptor micro usb/USB. You have to keep the receiver plug easy to be disconnected.
Did somebody try the X-Cross 80A version?
For 12s it may have enough power to get up…
Might work yes, I am set to 50 amp max from 12S2P battery to ESC with small board and small foil.
Power is probably OK, but there will likely be a lot more heat to get rid of on the 80A model.
And the difference of price and size in negligible IMO. Go big to be 100% sure. I’m always impressed how the 160 amp handles load without heating.
Sure the $30 does not matter by itself.
But I want to try two things - fit it into 80x50x2mm aluminium profile at the edge and to have it in one standalone block with the battery. Meaning that aluminum block will hold both the esc and the battery sealed.
Waw, very interesting, I’ll follow your DIY Gen2 style build for sure ! for a well working 80 amp ESC
Thanks.
Actually I walked away from the fdgen2 style.
I will first put this aluminum block on the board.
And then try it bellow the board next to the mast , tied to the mast and mast base.
For the sealed standalone concept I will have to solve the turning on/off the unit. Currently the plane to use a low rds mosfet, <1mohm, meaning a mosfet which will dissipate less power. And the mosfet will turn on gradually by connecting the motor cable.
Hey, why you need to disconnect the receiver for programming?
Programming connects to tx+gnd. Receiver connects to gnd+signal.
Isn’t it?
