ESUP with 6384 motor in 6 or 12s

HI,
As I can’t ride efoil in my country, I decided to build my own EPaddle (it’s also forbidden but I don’t care).
I will go for a cheap 6384 6s or 12s I do know not yet. The prop is designed with B series propeller generator.
For the cooling I planned to put the motor directly into the water but the then I saw a post from @PowerGlider (Thanks to his support) for the wet cooling.As it is winter now I will time to do it

image_2020-10-08_200831
I will fix the motor on a 3d printed fin

2 Likes

Si I received the motor yesterday and first issues…

I had planned to use a longer shaft but I can’t remove the grub screws. I used a hot air gun and a soldering iron but no luck. The glue they use is very strong
Also, I can’t remove the ball bearing (double row), it is probably glued with the glue from the grub screws.
I will use an extension or try to drill the screws

Second big issue is the winding. They use small wires (16awg) I planned to remove it and use 10 or 12awg. Unfortunately the soldering joint is in between the stator and the aluminium flange…

I will see tomorrow if I can remove the aluminium hub and change the wires if not I will shorten the 16awg and then solder some 10awg directly on it. And I will fill with silicon the hub

Someone in the Forum removed the shaft with heat but you need to cool the magnets otherwise they loose their magnetic force. Why do you need a longer shaft? Just screw the prop to the Ende of the rotor Bell, as people do with 63100 and 80100 Setups, they cut the shaft after the circlip. Use the 4 holes in the bell to fix the prop.

Ok so I will not try it
I have a design with the motor on the bell but I did not like without any real reasons :sweat_smile: :sweat_smile: :sweat_smile:
And I wanted to use an stainless shaft… Anyway I think that I will reconsider putting the prop on the bell …or use an extension like my very first design
Also it is maybe stupid I added a pump on the back of the motor for cooling the esc.

Note that I can do the same with the other solution

Some progress here since I have more time
I have totally dissmantle the motor.
It was not easy to remove the stator from the hub. But at the end I did it


I put some epoxy on the wiring but the insulation is not perfect

Regarding the cage I painted the magnet and I had to build a extractor to remove the bearing.
I did not manage to remove the shaft

2 Likes

The prop Ø135

1 Like

Hi!

It has to be completely different!

I am also currently transforming an outrunner motor (APS63100 -https: //alienpowersystem.com/shop/brushless-motors/63mm/aps-63100-outrunner-brushless-motor-140kv-4500w/), but in order to create a completely waterproof rotor and achieve the highest possible torque (than an equivalent inrunner motor). I replaced the original shaft with a stainless steel shaft.

If you need to pull out the shaft (and replace it with a stainless steel shaft), or just move it, I can advise you on how to do it.

It would be welcome. I tried heat but I do not want to damage the magnets

Yes, I had the same problems and concerns as you - the grub screws not be loosened and I was afraid that the heat would damage the magnets. So first I figured out how to do it and I prepared all the necessary tools. I will explain the whole technology tomorrow in a new topic, so that it will be easy to find in the future for other interested parties.

1 Like

Have you managed to loosen the grub screws yet?

Hi,
Sorry I did not have time to work on this project.
I did not try as I already had an alternative. But for a futur project with a 63100 I will try it
Thank for the tip!

Your procedure here seems to be very meticulous. If you ever finish the project, it could inspire many people interested in the e-sup drive.

Thank you but I probably invest too much time in it

Hey mate, awesome fin design. Maybe the prop should sit deeper in the water so that it won’t suck too much air in.

Can you tell in more detail, how you managed to separate the stator from the hub?
That would be awesome

Hi,
I heated the inside of the hub with my soldering iron @250°C
Then I put an brass rod into the stator against the hub. I held the stator and the brass rod together in one hand. And I smashed the rod on my work bench until the hub went off… In fact I used his inertia to remove it

Some progress here… In order to improve the epoxy coating I designed a small vaccum with some parts were lying around.
For the motor and regulator I use an old drill that did not have the batterie. I recovered the air cylinder from a garbage bin

It is a bit killing a fly with a canon but it seems very effective as you can see all the bubbles coming out from the stator…

I believe we can acheive the same result with a syringe and two no return valeves but where is the fun

1 Like

I replace the 16 awg cables with 12 awg… I planned to use 10awg but it does not fit in the hub
I I have filled in the bottom of the hub with some silicon

3 Likes

As I was not able to remove the shaft I have manufacture a special rod that go over the main shaft to fix the prop.
I also added an impeller in the back for cooling the esc


3 Likes

I tried it yesterday but only in 6s. It was not long before my redbrick esc 200a died… It should be a bad esc as I never went over 60a…
I still have my flipsky 200a on side…but it does not fit in my box

1 Like

I ordered 3 remotes…but I received zero remotes from now… I had to built my own remote with an potentiometer

I also built a safety (very important with the potentionmeter) with a reed switch.

Some pictures of the box and the connectors