First build - Full Carbon efoil

Thanks Andrii, the specification for Wing, Stab and Mast are impressive. Can you specify the connections used for the wing to mast, stab-boom to mast, mast to base plate, please.

Love the carbon look but 48 Celsius summer temps may require white gel coat for me.

36South

Sorry for the late reply, had been busy with work… It’s same adhesive for now, but I’ll replace stringers with shiny compartment that will be a structural piece of the board. It ended up weighting 6kg with gelcoat.

It’s simply bolts for now. I wanted to stay flexible with all connections in case of some changes. At the end, I’ll merge the mast and fuselage into one part with some easy way to assembly.
I used to make full carbon canoes and we didn’t have any complains)))

Super nice boards :+1:

With carbon, 5 mm PVC and this layup i guess the board is hard as a rock - in hindsight, could you have reduced the weight of the fabric?

What did you use to glue the foam layers (same for all?)

It has been a while since I had any updates on this project but there have been lots done))). Well… To begin with, it did not work as well as I expected. Things that went wrong:

  1. I could not take off due to the lack of power in my ESC so I was half the stall speed before getting the power cutoff.
  2. It was taking water due to the unevenly distributed pressure on the lid and also the hollow board tends to breathe under the load.

It does not seem much but it set me back for a while. So instead of iterating a nice-looking board I used the early prototype to run all of my ideas through

To fix the power problems I used the SEAKING 130A with watercooling (ram intake). Also, to be sure, I decided to buy a wing set from GONG. I went with Curve XLT and 65 cm mast.

Having an easy access hatch was nice, but whatever I tried, it still leaked water. The solution was to have a bunch of studs sticking out that will ensure even and decent pressure across the perimeter of the lid.

It looked a bit rough but worked like a charm and I was finally able to take off.


Curve XLT is just wonderfull for the beginners. Takes off 12-15 kmh. Comfortable cruise at 17-20kmh. Went up to 35 kmh but it gets difficult to counter the lift. Quite efficient if you ride it slow. Longest I’ve been on the water was ~100 min and did about 25km with 32 Ah battery.

I did about 50 hrs on that small esc before selling the board. So, I took the systems that worked, tweaked a bit and integrated them into the original board.

1 Like

With a new setup, I wanted to move my stall speed up to 20-25kmh just so I can cruise at 30+ with max motor efficiency. I went with flipsky 65161 100kv and FR 3 blades 6in pitch prop at 45-50V. That would put me into the 70%+ range, assuming 20% voltage drop under the load and 10% prop slip. Efficiency would get better with higher voltage but 12s pack was a constant to me. The ESC is 75200 with VX3 remote passively cooled.

6in pitch would bring me to sub 30 and if I need to go faster then I could install the higher pitch prop. ( it is all a theory of course :slight_smile: )

I was curious to establish the wing set range and went from Curve XLT to Veloce MT with 95cm mast (2100cm^2 to 1100cm^2). While riding I also noticed that the supplied wing set has too much pitch authority and requires lots of control input, so I also got the 16cm fuselage extension to improve that.

Waterproofing was a big deal so I meticulously tested the new hatch by leaving the board underwater for about an hour. Not even a drop got inside.


1 Like

Inserting the phase wires into the board through a tiny hole was far from a userfriendly experience so I patched the hole and moved the wire to the back of the board.




1 Like

I got very tired of taking the batteries out for charging and designed a simple control panel. It features 2x charging ports, 2x antispart switch rails, ON/OFF bottom, thermometer and a few vents for air circulation while foiling and condensation removal during storage. It does have a tiny 5v dc motor connected to Esc to move the air.

1 Like

How did the stab extension work for improving stability? I am curious as have ordered the same for my curve xl setup. I use the 49stab and I am quite comfortable but want to see if I can make it easier for lazy cruises or for teaching.

I had my first ride on a new board recently. It is a lot more challenging to take off due to the larger moment from the longer mast and requires a few slight pumps to get the wing out of the stall angle but then it flies well. It went as fast as 27 kmh using a bit under 2000w so around 40-45A on the motor. The ESC temp. went up to ~60C while riding for 40min with a few take-off attempts. It stalls for me( 85kg + 25ish board) at ~20 kmh. The overall feeling is like coming from a cargo plane to a fighter jet. It requires a lot more control to recover from a roll and a longer mast does not help but it is a lot more fun to be higher above the waterline. One of the hollow cavities in the mast was reinforced with uni carbon strings and epoxy but it still vibrates sometimes. Look forward to doing more testing.

It does make a difference. A lot less responsiveness on your pitch control.

1 Like

Hey Andrii, looking back at your older posts I see you used MDF as a mold. I’m looking at using that techique as well (only for a battery/electronics module though), just wondering did you seal the MDF with epoxy? Or other technique? And final blank/mold tooling coat? Cheers :+1:

Hey, I used the Duratec 823A to seal the mdf, then sprayed a thick coat of 707-061 and finished with a light coat of 1904-045. Brushing epoxy will work as well, but I personally prefer spraying.

If your shape does not contain any compound surfaces then you could also use the plastic tape and do some light finishing work afterwords on your part.

I have been looking for a cheap molding tooling board (for our CNC).

I am now thinking of CNC’ing the MDF close to what the mold will be, and vacuum infusing (with epoxy) the MDF after this.

After curing, I will CNC the mold to the exact size.

I know. a lot of work, but way cheaper than buying official tooling board.

That’s an interesting approach! I am curious to see how it will turn out

1 Like

I’ve tried something similar but i found that i anyway needed a sealing coat and a coat for polishing, so the second milling wasn’t worth it in my case.

1 Like