Hello Jamie!
Is it possible to connect flipsky vx3 + Bluetooth module at the same time via UART?
How to switch PPM to UART?
My new 65220 will arrive to me in a week and I want to set it up and test it))
Hello Animere,
Sorry, it’s not available to connect VX3 receiver and bluetooth module at the same time via UART.
Do you need PPM or UART? If no special order notes, generally the default drive mode is PPM. And due to the motor is waterproof motor and the ESC is potted inside, it’s not available for users to change the drive modes by themselves after receving the motor.
If you need UART, please kindly PM me your order number so i can check if your order has been shipped and if it’s possible to change the drive mode for you. Thanks.
Best Regards,
Jamie
Good morning, Jamie!
I prefer to use UART to see battery capacity and current at vx3 display. Bluetooth is nice to have…
My order at AliExpress is 5443 2765 9957 9456
Hi Animere, after checking with my colleague, your order has been sent out, so we can’t customize it to UART anymore…
At the beginning it did support PPM only, and then later we offer possibility to customize UART or CAN. But the possibility for customized requirements need to check and confirm with the corresponding sales before shipping.
Can you give me instructions how can i switch from PPM to UART by myself?
I received it! Very nice motor. A bit longer than 65161.
Nice size of wires (90cm mast on the photo)!
I doubt the correctness of using xt90. Its rated current is 45A, while the normal consumption of the engine is up to 60A. Is it worth changing the connector to another one, like xt150? Or is xt90 still enough?
2 Likes
I melted some xt90 connectors on my first motor, too many max power starts when i was learning. I’d switch to xt150 when you anyway cut the unnecessary wire length.
3 Likes
Congrats, fam! Have you tested it out yet? Is it louder than the 65161 or nah?
You might be a big guy because with my non optimized configuration : wingfoil board 120L+ 65161 motor + battery/ Vesc case on top, I feel the system overated and think to scale down the power (6384 motor).
I am 78 kg and using a XLT curve foil and nominal battery current is in the range of 20-25 amps. Peak current can goes up to 80 at startup but can be limited by the settings if necessary.
1 Like
Curious about why you would change motor???
High volume board at 120l and a big foil XLT (I think it’s 2100 cm2) would pop you up quickly and if you are cruising at 25A then your battery would provide good range. Acceleration and top speed are controlled by remote so control of that is literally in your hands.
True, i could lose some weight 
also my board and propeller wasn’t optimised at the time but with the xt150s i had headroom for that. I’ve had smaller connector melting before, generally they can work but if you want it to be foolproof then size it with some margin. I don’t see the point in skimping with connectors, especially since over the lifetime they can lose some of the conductivity, especially if they heat up or are connected/disconnected at every cycle.
1 Like
Quite simple, and applicable to all electrical vehicle (with current battery technology): to reduce the weight thus the power consumption (or increasing the autonomy).
As most of us on this forum, the plan is to cut down and optimize the total weight, so with a smaller and DIY board, smaller motor & VESC…
Of course, it depends on your foiling requirement (top speed, cruise speed, pilot weight and experience…).
For my purpose, not looking for a top speed and more carving etc…, 2000 W nominal is sufficient and peak consumption are transient so can be managed with equipement specification and settings to limit the current.
65151 motor nominal is 3000W/ 6000 W max with a 75200 VESC (going up to 300A burst)…but weight 3 kg + 1kg for the ESC
6384 motor is 2800 W/ 4400 W max for 1.27 kg in addition to a smaller VESC (75100) thus saving around 2 kg which is a significant improvement in my opinion, along with a board closer to 100L etc…
Pilot weight is a variable to manage as much as possible 
I agree that nominal and peak current have to be considered in the design but can also be limited by the settings (remote, VESC parameters…) or a fuse. Loose or bad connection is also part of the selection of equipement or control before going.
Margin is the reflect of your design and efficiency…ligher is always the better in this case.
Going more than 50 A in nominal should be clearly the limit in most of our case.
Regarding limiting the current in the settings, in my world you size parts according to the use case, not the other way around. If the use case allows an xt90, great.
I checked the actual weight (i didn’t think it would be a lot): a 4g difference between a pair of xt90 and a pair of xt150 won’t be significant.
Although I understand your logic about the benefits of a lighter rig I don’t agree that saving 2kg by changing motor and VESC is worth the effort and cost. I really can’t see the weight reduction translating into better performance.
I would also be concerned that a “less powerful” motor/vesc combo might not be capable of delivering what your used to.
Your post didn’t say you were considering a smaller board so might make more sense to just create a whole new rig and keep your current setup as a “backup”.
Nothing worse than having nice conditions and a broken rig😀
Did you have a look to this XT90 test : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4rcCdCVBXAI&t=89s
Nominal is 90 amps
You can get more than 270 amps in burst condition (tested) so it should be ok for less…
I’ve seen similar videos. It doesn’t change my experience with them melting 
Could be fakes, quality variations etc, but the thing is, i never had an xt150 either desolder or melt and i’ve been running high power setups for a few years. I size the wires properly, normally 10AWG or 8AWG, depending on use case.
It’s also easier to just stock one connector type, since they both cost roughly 2eur for a pair here and the difference in weight is marginal i think it’s an easy choice