Anyone tried this prop back to back with a foil drive 3-blade for efoil? (fits the flipsky waterproof 6374 and 6384 motors). I’m wondering if the efficiency gains in the foildrive prop would be worth it. I’m guessing FD will be better, but I’m wondering if anyone has real data to share? (couldn’t find much by searching the forum). I’ll try to log my next session now that I’m actually staying on foil for a bit before falling. But I think I was using around 60-65 amps when on foil.
My battery setup is 12s4p eve 40PL - so small for efoil but big for foil assist.
https://flipsky.net/products/4-8-inches-2-blade-folding-propeller?variant=45266122047729&country=US¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17178689502&gbraid=0AAAAAC4W4LUdSoo7Y7LiqTpjqsZhqceZw&gclid=Cj0KCQjwornRBhCrARIsAON5exETALAmjHoGAzg3XcfCtBd3PKhitAnuz_hZGAMEDff9vIfPqyTz1XQaAm2TEALw_wcB
I was also considering 3d printing a mold and then making 3 blades with carbon fiber layup, but I wonder if I would be able to balance them properly.
i am interested in this as well. I am currently using two 6384 on my tow boogie with the two blade flipsky props. One is the aluminium original one from flipsky and the second one a counter clockwise one printed from petg. So far the printed ones hold up pretty well although i accidentally printed one with 10% infill and 4 walls only. My battery is a 12s6p using molicel P42a. I will try to get some data in my next session.
I couldn’t get any 3d printed prop to perform well (even after sanding baby smooth and sealing with epoxy). Even the fixed 3 blade plastic flipsky prop worked way better (until i dropped it and it broke)
I used some props from @V_S, printed in esun pla+. They performed quite well, I sanded them and balanced with grub screws in the base.
I use an adapted flight prop now, it is from injection molded plastic, very durable and not too expensive. The advantage of printing a prop yourself is that you can adapt it to your needs, like flipping spin direction. For a foldable prop, if you get the blades printed in aluminium, it performs well.
I have used the flipsky 2 blade aluminium folding prop… and while its cheap and works, i am now using a 3D printed 3 blade folding prop and the efficiency gains are significant.
I printer the hub with PETG-CF (FDM printer) and the blades using an old cheap SLA (UV resin) printer (the original Anycubic Photon) but the trick to achieve the strength is to use Siraya Tech Blu resin and post cure it (Elegoo curing station). The blades dont need any sanding or coating. They just dont like the throttle being slammed so fairly gentle acceleration.
I have written more details on another post…
New waist belt foil assist build from Queensland - #28 by thuffam
I don’t have access to a resin printer, but I may try printing the mold from @Bzhwindtalker to see if I can make some blades with carbon fiber and epoxy layup (pressed in the mold). Or I might just order some FD blades - but they are pretty pricey
You can get the blades printed in alu from prototi and just fdm print the hub yourself.
What’s the cost like for 3 blades? And is the finish good enough or do you still need to sand, polish, and balance? Which process is best for this? DSML good enough? SML? What have you had success with?
I got a 20$ voucher, not sure if you still get that. It cost 51$ -20 =31$ including shipping, got them i Alsi10mg beadblasted. That was for 6 blades.
They were all within 0.5g the same weight. I just drilled an reamed the 3mm hole and filed them a litle bit on the surface that lies on the hub when open, to make sure all blades open at the same angle.
Only used it a couple of times in fresh water, they changed color a bit due to oxydation. They are not anodized so might not last forever in salt water, but for that price it is OK.
Are you able to share the 3d file you sent them for the blades 
i have to partly take back what i said earlier, in my last session i notice that my petg printed 2-blade props leave a big trail of air bubbles ion the water which the original flipsky ones don’t. When this happens i loose thrust one one side of my tow boogie causing it to turn towards the “weaker” prop. Will try to sand and flood coat them with epoxy to see if that makes a difference. No mechanical fails so far.
Hi I have built my own 3 bladed prop as the foil drive ones are expensive. The props were 3d printed then silicone molds made from the prints and then carbon fibre props made. They are very strong and light and didn’t need much to balance them. The hub was machined out of acetel / nylon.
Please share any files you have 
Wow, that’s some beautiful work 