Flipsky's new waterproof 6384

I saw that most are using 10-14s and I assumed that it would be no problem with 16s then. Is there any downside to using 16s? I have a friend who builds battery packs and he would build me a 16s10p battery for the foil.

One downside is that the voltage could kill you.

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But the motor would be fine? :grin:

Thereā€™s no real advantage at 16S. If you really wanted to harness the extra advantage you would need to get a lower KV motor which they donā€™t do. Theres a reason the commercial efoils all stop at 14S.

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Iā€™m running a 16S setup. The catch? You need a motor with the right kv for it. I roll with a Flipsky 65161, which can go as low as 100kv. The upside? Lower current and less heat, so everything stays cooler.

Less resistance heating, but not by much.

Although I have ignored you so I donā€™t have to read all of your posts I do take a look occasionally.

Yet again another stupid response to an equally stupid statement about using 16S on a motor like this. Good to know that I decided to ignore you.

Promoting the use of 16S packs just because you have one is being irresponsible as uninformed newcomers might think you know what your talking about and do the same.

The motor is in the water so itā€™s going to be cooled by that soā€¦ā€¦?

I run 10S on a 65161 120kv and nothing gets warm let alone hot besides the topic is about a totally different motor so why even mention the one you use - it isnā€™t relevant.

One reason people run efoils on 16S or above is to get faster without current increase. Most people should be OK with 12 or 14S, which is considered a reasonable voltage. If you want to reach more than 50km/h, 16S might be an option. The price for it is a higher risk because of the higher voltage.

Think of it like this: when your motor gets hot, itā€™s not just about the engine itself getting hotter. The real issue is that all this heat is making the battery lose its energy. The heat isnā€™t just coming from the engine; itā€™s also coming from the electronic speed controller (ESC), the battery, and the wires. Basically, all this extra heat means your batteryā€™s energy is being wasted, which is not ideal.

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With 65161 I went from 12s to 10s and no change at all in efficiency at all. With a good battey and 8gauge wires nothing gets even warm. As I said 40kmh on tap and lots of jam with the flite prop. The theory everyone talks about higher s value seems no big deal for us since we are pushing a car on the freeway.

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Thank you for all your valuable inputs. I understand that 16s is overpowered for this specific motor and is more dangerous because of the higher voltage. The advantages it brings with lower Amps and less lost heat are good but do not outweigh the cons.

I will therefore go with a 14s battery which still is high for this motor, but I donā€™t know what the future brings and the battery with a higher S count will be more flexible for other builds.

The 6384 should be a good fit for a first build and 40km/h seems fast enough for a beginner. Also the austrian regulations are easier exactly until 4400W electric vehicles :slight_smile:

I just finished my V7
In the end it weighs 16kg complete with wing battery
13AH/14AH consumption
2-hour battery life
Iā€™ll make a post dedicated to construction with more details

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