Yes mast is gong alu v2.
On with the box.
Do you thik it will be enough to glue it with superglue and reinforce the joints with epoxy microbaloons fillet and glass fiber over everything on the outside (also maye inside).
Continuing with an inflatable board.
Any idea what glue would be the best for connecting internal fabric to glassed box?
I’m thinking epoxy…
I like your motor clamp design, is it CNC machined from delrin or similar?
Your battery construction is very elaborate. What thickness and material are the slotted nickel strips you’re using to join the battery cells to your machine copper sheet - eg. 100% nickel vs plated steel? These nickel strips will be the current limiting part of the battery construction, and it will have the same resistance as if you had just used a ladder of nickel strip.
Did you consider mounting the short slotted strips in the series direction, as this would reduce the discharge current path to only the nickel strip, whereas in parallel layout it needs to flow through two soldered joints and copper (in addition to the same length of nickel)? The critical current path is only in the series direction. People often overbuild the parallel cell connections, when they could actually be very thin strips of nickel as they’ll only see current when balancing the pack.
What’s the method of joining the nickel strips to the copper, it looked like you added some glue on top of solder? In this configuration, if one of those solder joints fails you’ll have a resistance+heat issue. If the nickel was connecting cells in series, then the only thing affected by a failed nickel->copper sheet solder joint would be balancing. One of the reasons I like using 30mm wide 0.2mm nickel strip is that there are very few potential failure points, as well as being fast to build. Unfortunately the wide nickel strip doesn’t lend itself with a staggered cell layout like this.
With the inflatable board, it looks like you’ve cut through a lot of the drop stitch which holds the stiff shape of the board. What are you going to use for structure in the board, around the back of the electronics box?
It is 3D printed on resin printer.
It is 0.2x10mm pure nickel and it hopefully will act as fuse wire…
The resistance is lower because there is a copper “bus” in between. It should also act like a heatsink.
It is a solder paste that was then heated with heatgun. The joint of nickel to copper is not only solder but also mechanical so even if the solder joint melts it will stay in place and conduct electicity.
Also this battery can output 300A cont. so the current draw for this project is only around 30% of cappacity.
The box will be glued and screwed from top and bottom (still testing what glue is the best). This will hold the shape. Area around the box the board will be tapered to a round edge which is smaller than the height of the board. so maybe the issue will be only the red part like that:
So for a new concept not really an issue
I’m also thinking about making v2 the same way but only fiber glass box and thinner inflatable.
Amazing. I hope this works. What Glue are you using?
It is dedicated PVC glue for boat repair.
really really nice, i hope to work fine
just to be sure, we can take an inflatable board like a gong hipe, cut it from the top, make room insert a carbon box and glue it in place with overlapping the top , is that this easy ?
What I would do different is:
- making box smaller with custom hatch
- start like you said with Hipe or similar board
- cut the strands inside just far enough to keep the or put the box closer to the edge.
Also one option is to make half of the board solid and the other half inflatable.