I’ve printed a few efoil props with JLC3D. They’re China based, prices and shipping (at least to the USA) are pretty good and they have lots of printing options. I tried MJF, which a nylon powder based print. Also tried an SLA print in nylon as well. Both turned out really nice, very stiff and hard compared to FDM prints I’ve had. However I when I hit some weeds last month and also crashed into a sand bar with one of these props it chipped, so they clearly have limits to their toughness that isn’t hard to reach. They have a slight grit to the surface that can be sanded down a bit if you want, probably not necessary but easy to do.
I ended up getting a Flashforge Adventurer 4 which is a bit of an older printer. Along with the regular filaments, it can print in ABS, ASA, and TPU. I investigated some 3d printing places but I think this way will work out cheaper in the long run and of course, there is a much bigger learning curve ahead of me. I think I might also have found a source for the batteries but now I see that Molicel is going to release a P50B which takes the capacity from 4000 mAh (P42A) up to 5000 mAh.
which is 25% more than the current assist. Thinking I might wait a little while to see what the price is going to be.
1 Like
The Ampace JP40 seems like a good option. Highest score for high current in Mooch’s testing
Deal here:
Thanks for the news.
But the data in picture is incorrect.
Actual continuous current - 50A.
Same internal resistance as 45b.
It’s price when it will be available is twice that of 45b , which got reduced in price recently.
50b has +11% capacity, but twice the price.
The eve 40pl seems to offer the highest discharge. I don’t see moochs rating for the ampace.
Called LT22710A in the table, with a question mark if it’s the same as the ampace but in his other posts he seems to confirm they are the same.
This is the cell he recommended for the >40A discharge together with the moli 50 - but i guess molis are considerably more expensive.
Thanks for that. I had not seen a data sheet on the battery but only a popup on the Molicel website and that graphic came from a hashtag off their LinkedIn profile.
Twice the price is a little bit steep for me.
Same was for p45b.
P45b came out 2 years ago.
Half year ago it’s price was still x2 of p42a, now it is %30-%50 more.
So the prediction is by the time the 50B’s price becomes justifiably viable, Molicel will be bringing out a better model making me question my decision further. Thanks for the info, I’ll keep going down the P45B path then.
Onto the heat dissipation.
I have a Flycolor X-CROSS 160A on its way from China and a DSE box.
I am planning on making a heatsink with some copper sheet on the inside of the box, making a hole in the box putting some more copper in the hole and then on the outside. Glueing it all together using 3M fast cure 5200. Thermal paste between three layers of copper to ensure heat dissipation. Then using double-sided thermal tape to stick the ESC to the copper plate.
I was thinking I could use just a flat piece of copper on the outside rather than a piece that has finned. How hot can these ESC’s run? Are the batteries also a consideration to keep cool? Would it be better to just make one side of the enclosure a heat sink? I understand that it also depends on the user case of e-foil vs foil assist. Is it better to use copper or aluminium? Some advice on the matter would be great.
Why do you do that sandwich? Why not simply thermal glue the esc as is to the outside aluminum heatsink?
Although the other small heatsink won’t be cooled, but for mostly assist case it may be enough, it is enough for many people.
Some people reported not enough cooling and they attached somehow the small heatsink to the bigger heatsink.
Or buy Sequre 12200 or similar , which has enclosed heatsink. I will test it soon and write my conclusions.
Iishine, firstly thank you for your time.
The reason why I was thinking of using 3 pieces of copper was to have more places that the glue could adhere to and thus less chance of water ingress. The outer pieces and inner pieces would be larger than the hole and be glued to the box itself. The inner piece would be glued to the inner and outer pieces with thermal adhesive.
I have seen videos on Youtube where to remove the 5200 a person was using a large chisel and hammer, taking a long time to finally remove it. So maybe I am worrying over nothing.
But if the outside copper was ripped off by say a leash or something else and I only used one piece then everything in the box is compromised. But using 3 pieces gives a level of redundancy. Am I starting to overthink this?
I understand now the context. Yes, you are overthinking it to my opinion. To have something stronger, you may opt for pelican.