Foil assist system in a BACKPACK, dream o reality?

Perhaps in your use case that’s true but I’ve had several without a problem at all. In my use case (full efoil) immersion is brief and rare.

I and others have switched to Flipsky VX5 and as far as I know no one has reported any problems at all with them.

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Ok granted, but still stand by the fact that they are not fit for purpose.

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In the end I swicthed to the VX5 as it seems it hasn’t many problem so far.
Then I’ve ordered the Flipsky DC 6384 (with foldable propeller) and the FSESC 75200.
I also need a motor mount for the mast and a dry box to store the battery and esc: any suggestion about those components?
Am I missing any other components?
For istance, is the antispark swicth kind of mandatory?
Cheers to every suggestion here!! Peace & Foil :peace_symbol:

I would have a look at full builds people have posted, ones with confirmed working results. You can also have a look on Youtube. My build is Flipsky waterproof 6384 motor, VX5 remote, non-folding 3 blade prop from flipsky (so far works fine), and an old slingshot hoverglide setup with an infinity 84 front wing. I think my slingshot setup is my biggest barrier now. The motor and vesc are working fine ATM it seems. I’m using gear 13 to get planing but need gear 14 to fly. But when I fly, I seem to accelerate uncontrollably. This didn’t happen when I took an efoil lesson on vacation recently, so I’m guessing the power delivery is ramping up once the friction of the board leaves the water and maybe I have to do something with the throttle curve. Not sure, but I suspect my slingshot hoverglide foil setup from 2017 is also holding me back (with a huge front wing - infinity 84). I went for the 75200 pro vesc and it took a lot of reading in the forum and a lot of great help in troubleshooting my issues (and dumb mistakes). A note on the VX5 vs VX3, I think it’s a way better remote with the gears option (like most efoils on the market these days). I bought the one with the clear plastic and I do notice some micro water droplets in the casing after a session. I always try and hold the remote up and out of the water when I bail, but am not 100% successful. So I wonder where the water is entering and if these remotes will have the same issues as the VX3’s in the ling run. Hopefully not

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Hey can you let us know more about water droplets in VX5? Can you take some pictures in the thread about VX5 remotes? I am curious.

Thank you Tolson. So far I went for:
Flipsky DC 6384 (with 2 blades foldable propeller)
Flipsky FSESC 75200 (with aluminium case)
Flipsky VX5 controller
I’m now diving into the battery building process…

I have a question and a tip :slight_smile:

QUESTION: I’m struggling to pair the remote with the VESC,


did you go with UART connection?
Receiver is powered, remote says it’s paired with the receiver, but I’m NOT able to accelerate the motor or get any informations, I only receive a ESC LOW VOLTAGE warning on the remote
I’m able to make the motor spin via the VESC TOOL (Motor FOC tests) so I think I’m missing something on connection/configuration…
Any idea?

TIP: I have quite a lot of experience in wing foiling: When you are learning the power you need to take off it’s way too much to fly, expecially with big front wings.
Here you basically have 2 options:

  1. reduce the motor power as soon as you feel you are taking off, while pushing the front of the board down to keep control. It’s normal to have a “dolphin style” the first times. Better to retouch the water after take off then bend back, you will loose control and the foil will breach out the surface.
  2. Another option is: when you feel you have some speed but not enough to take off, you can try some “flat pumping”: basically you are trying to engage the foil with the help of your body movements. If the foil enganges it will lift you up even a little bit, you will feel the speed increasing without increasing the motor power. Then, if the speed it’s enough and the pumps are effective, you will take off with control.
    Also a combination of this 2 tecniques can be a good way!

Remember: you have control in flight only when you are able to push the nose of the board down towards the water. In that way you are feeling all the responsiveness of the foil.
I hope it helps

Latest ver of detailed manual and firmware here.

Flipsky Project - pCloud

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Good tips for sure. I am able to fly with the board level, it just feels so squirrely and fast that I bail after about 3 secs of riding. Front foot pressure us so harsh, my front foot is almost at the nose of the board (135L). I was going to try shimming the stab, but my bolts are seized, sigh. I will try backing down on the throttle or the other trick of pumping the board. I’ve tried pumping it before takeoff before and couldn’t get the knack of it, but my foiling experience is limited to a bit of kiteboarding and the efoil lesson.
As far as the remote… I had the esc low voltage warning on the remote as well when I was in PPM mode and it drove me nuts for at least a week. I believe that means the remote is not getting info from the battery. That’s what that blue pigtail is for - to attach to the battery to get the readout. But once I switched to UART mode (that the video doesn’t really explain so well, so I’m not surprised you fell into the same trap) the warning disappeared and I could get all readings on my remote. As far as not being able to get the prop to spin with the remote, did you go right for the gears settings instead of the L, M, H? If so, it won’t spin on gear 1 for me. I had the same frustration and finally found a video that fixed the issue. You need to start in gear 3 or higher to have it spin. It may even be a different number for you. I wonder if this is a safety thing so the prop won’t spin if you inadvertently hit the trigger

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I’ll throw some pics up after my next session. They are pretty micro water droplets, but definitely not condensation as they are only in clusters. There were very few. But I wonder if it’s getting in at the trigger and I’m only seeing very little of the ingress

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Thank you and good luck!
For anyone else struggling with the VX5 FSESC75200 UART connection this post from @janefoil helped me a lot:

In the end there are 2 simple things to be done:

  1. in the VESC TOOL choose “UART” (only) as input option.
    I was going with “PPM and UART” but then I read better and it’s expecting controls data over PPM and UART is used to give back info to the remote controller.

  2. Use the “PERFETCT MATCHING CABLE”. I was using the cable (coming with the remote box) which has one pin less from the one coming from the ESC. I thought the wires were matching correctly by aligning the ground and the v5 pin, but it is not. (picture in the post above)
    Using another cable (coming with the VESC box) which fits perfectly by the number of pins solved my issue right away. I had the hint from the Janefoil post linked above. Here is the picture:

I hope this can help people experiencing the same problems and also reading the “ESC LOW VOLTAGE” warning on the remote.

Cheers and flight everybody!

I’ve been developing a backpack assist unit over the past few months using mainly Flipsky components.

The system runs on 6S battery packs, which means you can take up to 20 batteries on a flight without issues.

The backpack works extremely well and is a relatively straightforward build. Once you’re on the board, you hardly notice the 3.7 kg weight at all. I’ve also had zero connection problems, as the receiver is positioned on your back.





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Amazing! That’s exactly what I wanted to build…
Can I ask you about the cable with the triple wires and the connector? is it self made?
Kudos for your build!

The cable used is LAPP ÖLFLEX Classic 400P 3G2.5 PUR.

This is the same cable specification used by Foil Drive, selected for its flexibility, abrasion resistance, and suitability for high-current mobile applications.

The 3-pin connector was designed by another forum member, JonathanC, who has the 3D print files available. If you message him directly, he should be able to share the files and offer guidance on the build.

If you need any additional information on parts selection, wiring, or VESC programming, just ask — I’m happy to help.

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The setup uses a Flipsky 6384 motor paired with the V5 remote for control.

The standard Flipsky 2-blade propeller works well as a starting point, but I’ve since upgraded to a Kparts Watersports 3-blade aluminium prop, which provides noticeably improved thrust and smoother low-speed response.

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So it WAS my slingshot setup. Evidently they gave those masts a bigger rake back in the day. A 3 degree baseplate shimm made night and day difference. Now I need a smaller board (138L North Seek is quite a bit of swing weight)

Any issues with that VESC? I just had my 2nd vesc (flipsky 75200 pro) stop working. Getting 50volts from the battery in but the 5V and 3.3V read 0. Is this just the way it is with these vescs? Need something dependable. Suggestions welcome. My battery is 12s4p, and hoping to use it as a foil assist once I know what I’m doing and efoil at the moment while I’m learning

Open the controller case and treat the low-current section with acrylic varnish. My controllers used to burn out constantly, but now they work even after being completely submerged in water.

Hello everybody, maybe you guys had the same problem…
Flipsky 6384 motor paired with the V5 remote, faux drive setup.
The standard Flipsky 2-blade foldable propeller works for me only in “e-foil” mode, when the motor is mount low, close to fuselage.
If I mount the motor high in “Foil Assist” mode, close to the board it’s kinda not working… the motor spins but the propeller seems NOT TO UNFOLD, at least most of the times…
I wonder if it’s related to the design of the flipsky propeller :thinking: or it’s something I misconfigured on the VESC.
Thanks to every advice!
Cheers

I believe that video you are referencing is mine :slight_smile:
I can comment on the VX5 controller, mine developed a leak after only a few uses. Flipsky is sending me a new remote as they said their initial batch had some bad seals. So as others have mentioned seeing drop of water in the housing, the water is acutally inside the remote. When I took mine apart, the screws were rusting and the remote would only turn on intermittently.

Very nice build, would you mind posting a few pics of where you made the connection for the leash, so it wouldn’t pull on the cables. For the backpack and the board. What I am interested in is how to deal with the strain relief. Thanks!