Foil Drive Assist, DIY

Max mechanical power is at around 70% of free spin rpm. So 0.7×120*25 = 2100 rpm. Increase the pitch and/or diameter until your rpm under load are like that. Mind you, motor efficiency at max mech power is quite low

They work well as an assist or Efoil when up high on the mast. As you move further down the mast the level arm increases which requires more weight forward on the board and more power from the setup. Try mounting the motor up high on the mast. With this setup (6s) we are generally at the lower power range regarding starting on an Efoil.

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Okay. Thanks.
Before switching to bigger Esc and higher voltage I will try higher on the mast. Clever.
I can fathom how to print the prop to maybe 120%, but anyone know how to increase blade pitch ?

I had good luck with the b series prop designer. Aim for 2000 watts or so @2100 rpm. If you have experience with freecad you can use my prop file, just replace the step file

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Hello! Who tried to give increased voltage 7s on Flycolor 150A 6s?

Help please :grin:

I have just gone from a 6S to a 7s battery in my foil assist.

I am just getting everything set up and have one problem I could really get some help with as I have run out of ideas.

I have a 6384 motor. I have moved from the Flycolor 150a 2-6S esc to the Hobbywing flyfun 120a 2-8s to allow for my new battery.

I have everything wired up but when I pull the throttle I get a stutter from the motor in the throttle range of 0-30%. Sometimes it will cut out altogether. Other times it will get past the 30% and then behave totally normally from 30-100%.

This does not occur with the same motor, remote and receiver with my 6S battery and Flycolor esc.

I have checked connections a couple of times and cannot see any problems.

If any of you have anything I can try, please let me know.

Much appreciated.

Further to the above, if I get the motor past the stutter I can then go up to 100% throttle and then drop all the way back down to 5% throttle very smoothly. The problem appears to be just on start up.

Thanks.

James

Will it be possible to ride a hydrofoil with a 6384 120 kv motor and Flycolor 150A 6s ESC without a paddle and a wing? Can I watch the video?

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I am following the same route.
Have you tried different esc timings and startup procedures in the programming of the esc ?

Acronym soup is right!
Thx

I’ll hopefully get a chance to try different timings and start up settings tonight. Thanks for the advice.

I haven’t been able to but others have. My limiting factor I believe is my BMS limiting continuous amps to 50 and peak of 80. I will hopefully be proving this shortly as people on here have had no problems with power.

Update on my new esc and the stutter. After research, I believe the term for this is cogging. There are a few useful videos on YT explaining this and the description fits.

I haven’t got rid of it but have lessened the symptoms by setting timings to 0 and start to very slow (thanks Alex2A for the suggestion). If I throttle to over 30% straight away it stutters a little and then works. If I throttle below 30% at the start it stutters and then stops. This is the Hobbywing flyfun 120a 3-8s esc. I would not recommend it for this application (unless I just have a dodgy one).

170usd watercooled waterproof compact 12s 200A ESC candidate for the Faux Drive Assist:

I’m at a similar point! Have the same question.im hoping to get some feedback whether the 650 W rating for a flipsky 5085 sounds sufficient. It has Kv 140 and runs on 22v. Since I want to run 8S battery set up but keep weight down as much as possible.
It weighs 0.68 kg.
Let’s hope we get some feedback. I note that ‘jan3’ modified a smaller 5065 by rewinding but I’m too clueless to try that. It’s only rated at IP28, so will need extra waterproofing I think.

kV is dependent on the total motor design, for a given motor you change kV most easily by rewinding it. You can change magnets and/or magnet poles also to change kV but then this is a big job.

I am building a shopping list based on this thread, but I want to understand battery options for those of us who aren’t interested in building a battery pack. Are the Hobbyking lipo’s sufficient at only 12C? for this application, assuming I go for the 6384 120kv and Flycolor 150?

If not, who else has used an off the shelf battery that doesn’t break the bank?

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Cheap ESC battery combination for a good foil assist setup ( or a 10-15 minute continuous efoil setup!)

I’m successfully using the flipsky 75100 (based on VESC) for efoiling, it costs around $100. I probably have around 10 hours on it so far running a 65121 inrunner rated at 3700w max and 2000w continuous, I’ve set max motor current to 120a, use a 48v battery, and usually sustain 80a battery current for 10 seconds. Should run the popular 6384 outrunner well. It would definitely be a good foil drive assist ESC, and would allow higher voltage than many of the cheaper 6s ESC people are using. Pair that with a battery like this one, I get 10-15 minutes of run time with it, and you have a ESC battery combo for $150.

I’m running water cooling, but a heat sink would work fine for foil assist. Add the Bluetooth module (nrf) and you can use the VESC android app for real time data.

https://batteryhookup.com/products/2-pack-panasonic-48v-power-module-13s-6-4a-299-99wh

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Not many off the shelf battery options out there in lithium ion. If it helps me and a mate found a local battery builder that would assemble a fully built “made in Australia” 18cell 24volt battery BMS for $400Aud. Talk to local bike battery builders or commercial electronic suppliers. a good charger will set you back another $200AUD. The last DIY kit I built came in at $1250AUD in parts alone. Not including 3D printing.

Boxed and ready to go!

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@Alex2A What transmitter is that in your post? It looks like you potted it in epoxy. Is it a 2.4ghz rc transmitter?