There are differences in what is called 6384 motor, the cheapest ones have 10-15mm shorter stator and can therefore not produce the same power or torque.
I don’t think 2/3 of a 6384 is enough to get up so that really matters.
My advice to anyone buying a 6384 motor is to ask for the stator width, if seller doesn’t know or won’t give you an answer then think twice about buying if that exact motor isn’t already verified to work in efoil/foil drive application.
I’ll see if i still have a fake ”6384”, then i’ll upload some pics
Yes, I have read that the stator length varies, but probably not by 10-15mm. The Saite looks identical to the APS motor and it was measured by @PowerGlider to 56mm stator and my $50 motor was about 50mm, so it is more like 10-15% difference. As I mention in my build thread, this motor works fine for efoiling, so at the price it is a bargain.
Now I’m working on a FD/efoil hybrid, with a 800wh 10S battery and the same motor.
This is in no way meant to rag on foil drive. I absolutely love their product and I would recommend it to anyone. But my intent on being a part of this forum was to recreate what they’ve made simply because I felt it wouldn’t last in the marine environment.
Although I have been meaning to open their motor for a while, I only opened it tonight to measure their stator.
Please note this motor has been rinsed and sprayed with a salt away product after every session.
The upper BDUAV 6384 motor is the one I got, which is 50mm, and the lower is a FD 6374. For 8-10S I don’t see a good reason to choose the 6374 over a 6384 though, for heavier people at least.
Answer is naturally no, question is more where the breakpoint for function is. Do you lift without paddling on the 46mm stator? At 50/54/56? at which weight and board float?
I just measured what i have here:
Torqueboards 6380 is 54mm wide
Noname 45$ “6384” is 50mm wide
(I screwed up the caliper location on the pics but values are correct)
The torqueboards motor has 10awg wires
(which will need to be extended)
The noname motor has 16awg wires
(which will need to be replaced)
No big difference here.
The torqueboards motor magnets are stronger, it’s a fight to get calipers released after measuring
That FD motor is going down the drain already it seems?
Stator steel might look bad but takes a long time to really make a difference whereas the magnets go quicker when rust has started to show. One or two magnets puff/crumble and then the magnetic balance of the motor is gone.
Hello, I have treated a 6384 with slow curing epoxy and the truth has surprised me what has happened to me. I didn’t get to touch the water and there was a problem in one of the wires that fed the motor, it got very hot for a few minutes and what I show in the photos happened.
I have no problem having to replace a motor every 6-8 months, the pleasure I get is better than the constant investment. The problem is that I don’t know if with epoxy I will have that flaking in the block of the epoxy itself or go towards corrosion X
Put ceramic bearings in it and soak in corrosion x every 10 or so uses in saltwater and enjoy the ride. My original setup maintained this way is going on 15 months old without any issues.
Hard to see what happened but I think you put far too much epoxy. Just a dip to cover the stator should be enough. Water should still be able to get to the windings to cool them.
Yeah same thing happened to us. It swells due to heat.
I suspect the 16awg original cables are not enough.
Anyone got tips to femove stator shaft when it is really strongly attached ?
The wires themselves can probably take it if it’s silicone, they are surprisingly heat resistant but it will create a hotspot where the phase wires are bundled together to exit the motor. If motor starts to run badly then this is one of the places to check. I’ve managed to quickly fix some 80100 motors with melted short circuits in this location.
Yep you all are right.
Those thin cables were completely rusted from the inside. I guess the silicone got a little too bent on my mast hole, or somewhere else, and water got in. The copper wires were more powder than wire at this stage ! No wonder the motor was all ClacClacing !!
I managed to get the motor bottom plate out, olacing the motor in the oven for 15minutes, and pounding the hell out of it, holding it with a leather glove.
