TOSH.JAH May I ask,
What is the esc you are using there? Is it the flycolor 150a hv???
Was thinking of buying it ???
Do you like it?
does it cut out at all?
Thanks
No, if designing/modifying the board, just mast plate and 10mm extra cable plate into a 15mm deep square hole.
But then you’d lose the ability to shift the mast backwards or forwards depending on application.
The easiest is just to make a 10mm acetal plate with bevellled edges to minimise drag. Or just drill a slot/holes into the board through to deck and then just run the cables.
Yes it is Flycolor Flydragon 150A HV version.
I like it, it’s quite simple ESC. Very easy to setup.
No cut out so far. Most important is cooling!
I’ve stripped it apart and cut a aluminium block to size which I glued with thermal glue to ESC and new bigger heatsink which is outside the enclosure. You can see details in my pictures.
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nice set up … i m running on 12S and I fly above water…I can catch a waves passing me …but Id did kill 3 or 4 propeler from propeler king…si moved to drive assist alumnium + nylon hub (same price as eml store). im on 47 litres board and gong foil …can you share with axis foil your are using and baord littre ? thanks
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Hey Vincent,
I am also planning on trying 12s, just to see how more power for the setup could be. How did you kill those propellers? Was it the sudden opening of the folding blades on full throttle?
With my setup it helped to limit starting power, so the motor wouldn’t kick as aggressively.
I’m using 19 liter board and 1150 high aspect wing from axis.
Hi Tosh, which setting did you adjust to limit the starting power?
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The propeller breaks up on tight turns after going up and down the wave … I believe 12s is too much for these propellers … 8s is safer !!!
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As I am using MGM controllers in most of my builds they have setting called “p19 max short time current”
I limited that one so the controller doesn’t output full power immediately.
Any photos of the broken props - I was just about to order some and I’m a bit worried now. I’m only running 8S so maybe it won’t be a problem.
Are the folding props breaking or the rigid ones?
No worries, I’m running the folding prop from propeller king on 8s and it works like a charm. You won’t regret 
Or use 12s or 14s and activate the soft start on a VESC6 MK VI HP 60V (14s) 180A peak… 300usd
https://trampaboards.com/1x-vesc-6-hp--high-power-pcb--250-each-p-35311.html
I really like the Ikea boxes. I also thought many times they would work pretty well. But also something else cached my attention: what is on top of your esc-box ? a killswitch and a ? if so, can you also explain how you build the killswitch please?
THX
Couple questions: Where did you get the 3 phase wire and did you replace the original straight from the motor all the way to your ESC?
Thanks for answering
Todd
The wire is nothing special. Here is the link to the one I bought: Three Core Marine Auto TINNED Thin Wall Cable 2.5 mm² metre 13 AWG 3 Yacht Boat | eBay
I just do a waterproof connection. To the existing wires that come already attached to the 6384.
The box is from CamdenBoss (Chdx8).
Flycolor 150a
tosh.jah. THANKS for the info about the Flycolor 150a hv ESC. I bought it for 95USD ( cheap in my opinion). It is working VERY well. I used the ESC inside a waterproof compartment, initially, and with the ASCF function turned on, the ESC kept remarkably cooler than with the ASCF function off. I have purchased several VESC and non VESC units, and this FLYcolor is by far the best.!!!
I have mounted it ( with double sided thermal tape) to an appropriately sized heatsink, glued to the outside of mybox. You can not even notice any significant heat after efoiling for 40min straight!!!
Wonderful esc
Note. I purchased an 80a v3 flycolor ESC and will be trying this smaller one out. I will report back how it works. ( paid 40$ on aliexpress)
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Very interesting and thanks for this info. I’ve been struggling to get my foil assist efoiling even with 10s. It might be worth trying out the flycolor instead of the vesc and arc200…
I just finished modifying a new Flycolor Flydragon 150a HV esc for ‘through the box’ cooling. I thought I’d relieve some trepidation if you’re nervous about what’s inside.
First disassembled the plastic case, which by some miracle they didn’t seal and fill with foam rubber like the 150a water cooled version.
Removed the 6 screws holding on the heat sink and machined off the fins.
Next made a block to add thermal mass and spacing and attached to thin plate with thermal paste and machine screws.
Then a second plate to glue to the box so I can later remove the ESC.
Window in box bottom…
And assembled.
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Is this the 3-6s Flycolor 150a esc? If so, I tried this with my 6s battery and it worked great but 6s was not quite enough volts for me on my foil assist. It worked ok but I tried 8s and was much happier. The Flycolor esc for 8s was significantly bigger and I couldn’t get it to fit in my box.
It was the flycolor 150a 6-12s version. Aircraft version. It is 90usd on AliExpress.
I am not using an ultra small box , but perhaps the 150 a ESC might be too big. I did order an 80a version for 10s and it should be able to fit in my smaller box. I just haven’t tried it yet.
I should add, I just glued a 10mm x 60x 100 heat sink on outside then from inside I used double sided sticky thermal tape stuck the “as is” ESC onto it. It worked extremely well.
POD
I can appreciate how much work it took to make that heat block/ sink. Good job. Exposed to outside water/ air I bet the ESC doesn’t heat up one degree. Mine does heat up but just feels a little warm not the usual hot to touch
Jezza
I do not know everything but I do know that 10s battery ( providing they can put out 80 to 100 amps) should easily be able to get you up. I think the problem is that the prop is to big and ESC having trouble with too high torque.
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