Foil Drive Assist, DIY

I’m using a 24L board so it needs a bit more power to get on the plane and then foil. I’ve got a 6384 100kv so it will be interesting to see how it can perform on 10s compared to the maytech motor…

6s 8s 10s
My photos are of the 5-22s version, like Tosh.
But I only run 6S packs. When I didn’t have quite enough oomph, I switch motors from 120 kV to 170 kV. Problem solved.

But me xt, I’m going to modify a new 6S ESC by removing just the fins and using a tall enough block to just clear all the bumps (capacitors, etc). Then I can run my tiniest box 6S3P.
Everything inside the 6S version is filled with icky foam rubber so going through the top is the only way to get heat out of the package.

2 Likes

I would be very interested how the 80a Version works, because it is so much smaller than the 150a version. It would be great, if you could share your testing results!

back at it with a special carbon box holder that I can remove when I go surf foiling (without motors! ) :wink:

I had a GO FOC SV6 laying a round, brand new. Just tried it… the FOC does not work (even detection) on 8S. BLDC fails most of the time. I’ve sent a note to Maker X to see what’s up :slight_smile:

keep u posted!

1 Like

I have been thinking about making a foil assist that allows you to swap ends to either efoil or foil assist. My son likes to efoil and I prefer the assist. I was tired of all the taping etc to swap back and forth. The axis mast is the perfect setup as it is hollow and also symmetrical allowing you to place either end in the baseplate.

I ended up notching out the trailing edge of the mast and bolting a backplate to the internals of the mast to mount the motor to. A clam shell style cover is added to each side to streamline the wiring.

I am using a waterproof version of the xt60 connectors and potted the backside of the connectors in epoxy. The wiring runs internally and has the three phase wires routed to both ends of the mast. The end not in use is capped off and tucked inside.Uploading: IMG_4567.jpeg…
Processing: IMG_4595.jpeg…
Processing: IMG_4650.jpeg…
Processing: IMG_4740.jpeg…
Processing: IMG_4736.jpeg…

So far I have 10 hours on this setup (saltwater) without any problems and have been able to swap ends at the beach for my son and I to take turns.

2 Likes


2 Likes


6 Likes

That is a brilliant idea! Nice work. When you get a second, tell us what you have done to make the xt60 connection waterproof.
Thanks

1 Like

So your motor is cabled with two three-phase wires in parallel then ?

3 Likes

Yes that is correct regarding the wiring. I used the connectors shown below. One has two wires, one connector with a single wire. I then potted the backside (where the wires are soldered) in epoxy. I use dielectric grease to help keep them water tight.

6 Likes

Have you seen the bigger brothers… AS150U:

1 Like

Might need to order some, thanks!

Have just tested the flycolor 80a v3. It is great. It could handle all the amps I needed.
I have it stuck on to an externalized cooling heat sink, and the esc only got warm after 20 minutes.
I am very happy with it.

I really think the 80a esc is all that I need and the 150a is unnecessary/too much.

2 Likes

Interesting, thanks for reporting back.
Is this the one you bought?

FLYCOLOR ESC FLYDRAGON-Pro-80A-HV3 Brushless outrunner Motor Speed Controller For RC Airplane - 80A Drone
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtD8QfI

I only have experience with VESC so far. Do these Flycolor ESC allow to configure some settings like low voltage cutoff or max battery and motor current?

These measurements explain why the Maytech foil assist motor just can’t get running properly. The Maytech stator only measures in at 40mm.

I don’t know, 40/46 is 87% and i guess some of the cheaper 63xx motors were around that?
Could be lower grade magnets too i guess.

The extra bit might just be enough to get past the threshold needed…

Yeah, could be. But with that small diff it might be possible to fix with the right propeller, did you find time to do some trials?

Yes that is the one. you want the v3 version. It has the heat reduction programming which actually works. Unfortunately the v3 version only has timing that can be changed. It does not have low voltage cutoff or over temp cutoff. The v2 has all these features but it doesnt have the heat reduction option.
This esc doesnt get hot with the externalized cooling plate, and I know when the voltage is getting too low.

I have used the v3 now a dozen times. I have 3 flipsky vesc that i have used , all with over 100amp capacity and after all the trials/ fooling around with settings etc etc etc, I have found a Simple/Small/Able/Extremely inexpensive ESC that I Love. I will never go back to the Vesc.

2 Likes

less power when you press the trigger? maybe you could have an alarm beeper on the balancing cable and you’re good to go

1 Like