I’d change the design to make it a plastic cover, could be resin or sls 3d-printed quite reasonably if there are metal standoff rings taking the load from mast to board.
Could be tried with stacks of m6 large diameter washers😀
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yes, exactly. I also got the option and it’s half the price if you go for P12 Nylon. That’s why you have big channels that will use metal standoff to take the load as you’re pointing it. Walls are 10mm except the bottom and top one.
I just need to find out how to make rubber gaskets and add the few screws holes / tabs here and there
Nice 9S4P battery. If you look at the VORTEX pictures shown by @brycej, if aluminium, walls could be thinner around 5-6mm thick + 3mm for top and bottom
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@okp Did somebody estimated the consequences and drag of these 4.5cm?
Per my understanding:
This is a foil-assist after all… It will be used for a lot of get ups on foil. Board have to plane easily, otherwise more battery usage and maybe even not get to enough speed.
Thanks for the feedback on this esc. Do you have an external heat sink with this installation or is it just inside the box?
too hard to estimate. did somebody estimated the consequences of having you lying on the boards with some of your legs in the water while pressing the throttle.
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This just made me laugh a lot!
This isn’t really an issue for getting up. It’s more an issue on a touchdown with higher speed. Below board units act like a unexpected brake.
But for weight distribution and pumping the board they will be the best option as they sit in the COG area.
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The only thing I did was resolder the wires so that the esc would fit better in the box and combine it with the bec using heat shrink.
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That really is great news. Thanks.
You could remove those extrusion for the bolts and the centered battery pack. Instead you make an extrusion for the mast in the center. So the box would be mounted onto the mast right below the board.
The benefit would be that you can 3D print it due to reduced mechanical stress on the box. Second you don’t add length to your mast.
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this is super smart mate !!! I went for this design to allow a slider for different mast but your view is definitely better. How do I make it waterproof?
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I am not completely sure about waterproofing it. But maybe it would be sufficient to brush the print with epoxy? Or laminate some glass fiber / carbon.
This isn’t an issue. In fact most foilers would welcome the extra length without reducing the actual mast length.
here we go. going @tkfoil way enable to cut the cost down A LOT, remove some weight and also make it compatible with all masts + enable to change packs without removing the mast… and slide the setup on demand.
a lot of benefits.
now I need to figure out the waterproofing technic in the wonderful world of gaskets and add the screws. This will works pretty fine in PA12 with a very very decent cost (less than 250 euros for the box!).
if that works, I will release the files to the community.
Another idea for waterproofing. Due to having this much space it might be feasible to make the electronics and batteries on the inside waterproof instead ensuring the box is 100% waterproof.
Maybe this way it will be simpler to achieve.
I’m in the North East of England. The North Sea isn’t much warmer 
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If the print between the mast and board turns out to be too weak, you could instead use some U-shaped aluminum profiles and mount them between the board and mast. Then you take the box and just slide it in.
yes, I think you are right. potting the inside of the box could be a very good solution but this will make the battery replacement impossible.