I noticed the HiBox is an extremely tight fit for the FD+ prebuilt battery I have. So I switched to a CamdenBoss box which is about 5mm higher. Now I‘m wondering how you guys remove all the spacers and fixing points inside the box. Did anyone try using a desktop CNC machine? What bits and CNC parameters did you use?
I could of course just use a Dremel but the results aren’t very clean as the ABS tends to melt and smear.
I used a CNC mill but just jogged it along slowly. You should be able to do 6mm bit, 2mm DOC and around 1000mm/min depending on how strong and fast your spindle is.
Hey Nicolas, do you have a link for that heatsink? It can’t be flat on the backside based on the shape of the FSESC 6.7. How did you solve that problem?
hello, where can i download stl files? thanks
I kept the original flat black heatsink from the ESC, glued with thermal glued to big external heatsink
I have this as a spare and was worried about using it after all the negative comments ive had about its components and overheating etc…
What vesc settings did you go for as a base set up???..ive had so.much advice on potential configurations but you are literally the only.person who has actually used this vesc succesfully.
I also have an external heatsink which the unit is glued to.
Cheers
K
Very classic configuration ( for a 7070 flipsky motor, very close to 6384) : foc , motor current 90A, max motor current 140 A , max battery current 60A,
Used with 10s2p lidl batteries
Ah i see, im running a 6374 and all the advice says run the setup without FOC?..8s3p. Some say use dutycycle some day dont use it…its all a bit black.box which is why i ended up using the ezrun max6…lol
Still want.to crack the VESC code though, eventually.
K
BDLC is easier to use. Current control is the best (and only) option I think
Another vidéo trying to catch some waves
I think there is no point in trying to pump with the motor submerged in water.
It does make a big difference for me, it is a low power system, 28v x 65 batt amps but more like 30 - 35A when battery is low due to lvc.
I need less power when pumping, and feel acceleration. It is also mostly a training rig to get into pump foiling 
It actually makes a massive difference. I’ve used low power setups that would never get up normally without pumping. Pumping momentarily releases the board and the small increments in momentum allow a low torque motor to pick up RPM.
I’m talking about what I see. At 0:16 I see the motor completely leaving the water, which means there is enough power. This is a good starting point to start pumping. From my point of view, you need to improve this technique, and not what the rider has been doing most of the time.
Following - I am as well trying to do so
Hi,
Does the motor require sealing or it comes water proof?
