Foil Drive Assist, DIY

Clever design with the machined parts!
That black part is to cool the inductor or just as a spacer?
And you put another black spacer between the outside heatsink and inside?

A note regarding internal heatsink: No need for the actual radiator with fins inside an enclosure because no air moving. Only mass of the aluminum matters.

That ESC has a weird design…it’s transistors are actually equally distributed across the sides. So unless you cool both sides, will be bad cooling.
And why is the heatsink that long?? To cool the inductor? What is the role of this inductor and since when and inductor gets cooled?

@lishine Thanks.

The black part is actually the original alloy branded cover which acts as a heat sink on the other side. It has just been cut shorter as you say to act as a spacer, plus transfer any heat accumulating in the inductor. I am assuming there is some inductor cooling required because the original cover had thermal paste in a very specific recess in that part of the cover - designed to fit around the inductor. .

I know that the internal heat sink will not be that effective given that there is no internal airflow but i thought it wouldn’t hurt to put it back on since it requires no additional space.

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Thanks for answering.
How did you do the connection to the outside aluminum heatsink?

I printed my strap out of tpu. The end of the strap that stays in the mount tapers out so that it is too thick to slip through the slot. The tpu has been incredibly strong.

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Do you have a picture of the pcb/mosfets on the side with the smaller heatsink? I wonder how the hardware of 120A version of the HV3 differs from the 160A version.

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Above from a 120A flycolor xcross

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I’m not really knowledgeable enough to compare these vs the competitors but here is the datasheet for the mosfet:
https://images.chipyun.com/pdf/C918243_EF106D0E964CAC605A6F7755A6856C1D.pdf
Low rdson and voltage of max 100V.

guess current ratings will be set by the cooling / melting of the legs.

If there are any power electronics guys here it would be interesting to hear what you think about it.

Hello, I am looking for a 3D file of a 3-blade folding propeller so that I can adapt it to my project?

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I’m currently running a 12s2p battery in my prone foil board as an 8s2p and 4s2p configuration with a y cable. These are the molicell p45b batteries. I use the genuine 3 blade foil drive hub. I’m getting about 35 mins of e-foiling in the flats with a few stops and starts along the way using a large foil (axis spitfire 1180). I come in when voltage drops to 35v. I was hoping to get longer. I’m at about 50% throttle to stay up on the foil. Any tips on how to squeeze more time out of it?

I’m using the 160a Flycolor x-cross esc. This is limited to 100amps. Anyone running on a lower limit to get more time?

Thanks,

James

Pic of board and set up for reference

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35 minutes from 9000mAh is not bad at all.

Thanks. Good to know this is to be expected.

That’s an average of 15.4A of you were efoiling for most of that 35min.

Probably about 6-7 launches which will be pretty demanding on the battery followed by mostly e-foiling at low speeds with some unaided pump practise (but I cannot pump for long).

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Can we reverse engineering the FD 3-blade propeller?

This is the actual package:

It is almost the best transistor! (1.3mohm is the minimum available in the market for 100v).

rds=1.7mohm.
Max dissipation 380W.
220A continuous at 100c.
thermal conductivity 0.4c/w junction=>case

Dissipation calculations

2 paralleled
(2 up + 2 down)x3 wires
=> overall dissipation at 100A = (2x1.7m/2)x100x100 = 34W
dissipation at 50A = 34/4 = 8.5W
temperature rise because of transistor case thermal conductivity = 34x0.4/12=1c => can be disregarded

Therefore, if there is a thermal problem, the reason is:

low thermal conductivity pad/glue
the heatsink, that is in the box - is too small

You can choose which way the motor spins by swapping the motor wires connected to the ESC. No need to reverse the FD 3 blade propeller. Is that what you mean?

I think he meant reverse engineering.

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Oh, sorry, I meant - can we reverse-engineer the 3-blade propeller.
I fixed the post now.
It is a matter of 3d-scanning, isn’t it?

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Rather just measure the pitch and make a new one. It’s not hard with the online tools available.

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