I see. Yes, I’m sure that is possible. I don’t have the means to do that though. The biggest difference I’ve seen with a lot of the 3d printed blade designs on here and the genuine ones is the size. The genuine blades are considerably smaller.
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First tests in the bathroom. There is 30 cm of water above the box, the connection with the remote control is excellent.
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@rttn are you telling us that you just pulled off a copy of the FD casing, waterproof hatch? If so how? Alu or print? Seal?
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This is not a replica, just a box with a nose cone. I designed it in Fusion 360 in a few hours. Only the electronics compartment is waterproof. But I tried very hard to make the battery waterproof). Prototype material: PETG.
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This looks brilliant. Very professional. Well done.
Thank you. There is still a lot to be done. I want to create my own compact waterproof connector, one of the contacts of which will spark proof. Something like that.
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Did you make any modifications to the mast clamp to fit your Axis mast?
Or did you just use stock mast clamp from Hangloose?
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That looks amazing! Good effort - can hardly see any joint lines!
Can you please share what box you used?
I am trying to build similar, ended up buying 100x25x1.6mm aluminium tube… just trying to work out how to water proof ends.
I started with a similar 3D printed design but worried it will compress under load hence moved to aluminium (I will braze in vertical tubes for each bolt hole for strength) - but have thought about adding aluminium tubes to the 3D printed model too.
Do you have your own topic - I’m sure others would be very interested in following you too??
Hi guys, about batteries in your 75mm height Camdenboss box (slightly wider than DSE as far as I remember), I found a “cheap” existing setup which is working good coming from long range drone.
2x 6S2P Iflight fullsend 8000 mah ( Samsung 40T) with a serie connector, the packs must be 44mm66mm150mm max to put 2 side by side and you have to remove absolutely all the plastics appendix in the box. Thanks to longitudinal cell configuration.
ESC must be set at 60 amp max to keep the batteries in good health. I’m 88kg and my X cross 160 amp is set at 50 amp.
Careful: It doesn’t fit in official Foil Drive Gen 1 DSE box
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About propellers, I bought an official Foil Drive 3 blades prop, it’s a real game changer. The alu blades are so stiff and thin, it’s very efficient consumption wise and it provides a crazy grip on the tips.
I could higher my pod towards the board to 2cm.
By the way a friend proposes a very stiff alternative in France for 3 blades prop with G10 (almost same perf than alu) or a cheaper plastic solution better than PA12 . Check his website, he sells also pods and accessories.
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You paid 248eur plus taxes and shipping for the foil drive three blade? How much was it in total?
I’ve been lucky and found it in 2nd hand. But still 230 euros as far as I remember . 300 euros in France
How did you mount the FD prop?
Same motor as FD on my DIY so very easy, just 3 screws instead of 4.
Does anyone know what bearing this is used on the name brand FD units, or where to purchase one? It seems to be a sealed ss bearing in front of the usual ceramic bearing. It looks like it is designed to take the load from the motor bell housing pushing forward.
I thinks it’s a 316 stainless bearing. They had huge issues with the ceramics breaking.
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Sorry for the slow reply. I used heatsink cement between the machined internal bracket and the flat surface which protrudes through the box from the outside heatsink. Just held with a clamp for 24 hours.
Pleased to report i am having 0 heating issues now. Can e-foil around as much as needed without hitting thermal limit.
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Thanks for sharing this. Makes it so much easier than trying to figure out how the individual components interact with so many variables. Cheers