Foil Drive Assist, DIY

That looks brilliant. Just practice printed that mount from Hangloose in PLA+ and what looks like the same prop.

What materials have you found best for the prop and mount? I am considering PTEG for motor mount and carbon infused for the prop?

Would you mind sharing a link to the motor you are using? I am looking at 6384 outrunners, but unsure how they will connect with that mount and prop - do you cut the shaft off to make it fit?

Looking forward to starting my first build! Cheers

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I don’t quite understand. Do you advise me to print this?
As for the choice of material for printing, none of the existing plastics fully suits me. Now I am practicing post-processing, annealing PET-CF at a temperature of 140 degrees Celsius for the blades. Let’s see…
I trim the shafts if necessary. Regarding the choice of motor, my opinion is - if there are no money restrictions, take the waterproofed Saite, otherwise noname 6384 120 kv from Ali.

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Thanks, sorry for my poor wording.

Are you printing all the components (nose cone, motor mount, propellor hub and blades) from PET-CF or just the blades?

I have seen broken hubs and was considering nylon or PETG for hub? Would you recommend PET-CF for all the parts?

I only print high-stress parts, such as blades, from engineering plastic. For the rest I use PETG.
Sooner or later, PETG parts break because this material is destroyed by vibration. I simply treat these parts as consumables and reprint them after a year.

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Tried a mast clamp from Strongarm for my Axis carbon mast. I couldn’t find a suitable silicone strap, so I printed my own from TPU A93. A little stiff, but it works. 24-karat gold in pins - why not)?



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What is the model of your prop? 3dfile link ?

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Spearhunter, here are a couple of props kindly shared by @s9tim

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-KTznIHZ19NRtmu3c3iP2X_9P2GfM0ES

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I just built a 12s2p pack with molicel P45’s to try on my faux FD. I did not notice any power difference between it and my 8s3p P42 pack. I am using the Maytech 100A, so that might be the limiting factor. I’m gonna build another box using an extra flycolor 120A I have to try.

I use the 6384 standard motor. Just wonder if the 3 cable connections to the windings of the stator needs to by alll means sealed and coated. As it is quit complicated to remove the stator plate for that I want to skip that step if possible.
Related to this I have an understanding question as well those 3 cable do not connected to ground potential so a short circuit between those 3 cables cannot be happen. Is this understanding correct? Or asked another way around is it necessary to isolate this cables from each other when used in water

See my answers…but normally the outrunners are sealed well enough as delivered. Wires have heat shrink and it creates enough isolation distance to avoid shorts.