That looks brilliant. Just practice printed that mount from Hangloose in PLA+ and what looks like the same prop.
What materials have you found best for the prop and mount? I am considering PTEG for motor mount and carbon infused for the prop?
Would you mind sharing a link to the motor you are using? I am looking at 6384 outrunners, but unsure how they will connect with that mount and prop - do you cut the shaft off to make it fit?
Looking forward to starting my first build! Cheers
I don’t quite understand. Do you advise me to print this?
As for the choice of material for printing, none of the existing plastics fully suits me. Now I am practicing post-processing, annealing PET-CF at a temperature of 140 degrees Celsius for the blades. Let’s see…
I trim the shafts if necessary. Regarding the choice of motor, my opinion is - if there are no money restrictions, take the waterproofed Saite, otherwise noname 6384 120 kv from Ali.
Thanks, sorry for my poor wording.
Are you printing all the components (nose cone, motor mount, propellor hub and blades) from PET-CF or just the blades?
I have seen broken hubs and was considering nylon or PETG for hub? Would you recommend PET-CF for all the parts?
I only print high-stress parts, such as blades, from engineering plastic. For the rest I use PETG.
Sooner or later, PETG parts break because this material is destroyed by vibration. I simply treat these parts as consumables and reprint them after a year.
Tried a mast clamp from Strongarm for my Axis carbon mast. I couldn’t find a suitable silicone strap, so I printed my own from TPU A93. A little stiff, but it works. 24-karat gold in pins - why not)?
What is the model of your prop? 3dfile link ?
Spearhunter, here are a couple of props kindly shared by @s9tim
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-KTznIHZ19NRtmu3c3iP2X_9P2GfM0ES
I just built a 12s2p pack with molicel P45’s to try on my faux FD. I did not notice any power difference between it and my 8s3p P42 pack. I am using the Maytech 100A, so that might be the limiting factor. I’m gonna build another box using an extra flycolor 120A I have to try.
I use the 6384 standard motor. Just wonder if the 3 cable connections to the windings of the stator needs to by alll means sealed and coated. As it is quit complicated to remove the stator plate for that I want to skip that step if possible.
Related to this I have an understanding question as well those 3 cable do not connected to ground potential so a short circuit between those 3 cables cannot be happen. Is this understanding correct? Or asked another way around is it necessary to isolate this cables from each other when used in water
See my answers…but normally the outrunners are sealed well enough as delivered. Wires have heat shrink and it creates enough isolation distance to avoid shorts.
Do you know what is this prop TPU damping used for?
Ive got the same esc. Everything seems to be working so far but i cant get any communications from the receiver to the esc. Any tips?
Are you feeding the receiver 5v?
Is the red led on the receiver on?
There’s two ways to power the receiver, either with a cable off your balancer port of the batterie or with a designated BEC that delivers 5v to the receiver.
Yeh I’ve got 5v at the receiver. It pairs with the remote. I’ve just got no output throttle signal from receiver
So I opened that inductor.
What to do now? The inductor itself seems intact.
But it cannot be cooled by one radiator because it is higher than the mosfets.
How do you all manage that esc?
Did you find out which inductor it is?
Probably they didn’t mean to cool the inductor , it is just in the way of the radiator.
BTW part of the MOSFETs is not covered with thermal epoxy , so the cooling is lacking out of the box…
Cooling for SMD FETs should be done from below with vias trough the PCB (or alu PCB), not through the plastic case. You could add a small piece of aluminium on top of the FETs if you still want to cool them from the top.
I understand what you mean. But this is the design that we have in hand - no extra pcb surface area and pcb is not aluminum.
2. Looking at the datasheets of our mosfet - ncep016n85ll, and mosfet with top contact - IPTC020N13NM6.
Our tjc=0.33, is it junction to plastic case or to some of the pins?
The infenion transistor specifies tjc=0.4 - that is the thermal resistance to it’s top tab. But it specifies also thermal resistance to some of the pins = 3
It’s an 820 inuctor which I have found impossible to get.
820uH? How do you know it?
And what it’s current rating?
