No clue on current rating.
thermal resistance junction-bottom is usually between 0.1 to 0.5K/W for those devices
and junction-top between 15 and 20 K/W
You can read more about that in this document: https://www.ti.com/lit/an/spra953d/spra953d.pdf?ts=1718747075005
For our transistor this is the Tjc=0.3.
And it is the only thermal resistance data given.
There is no tab on the bottom, nor on the top.
Yes, this is the one on the bottom. Top will be between 15 and 20 roughly.
Please advise me about leash vs box placement.
When putting the box at the back of the board, I am afraid the leash will start pulling on the box, when I am in the water - testing it’s attachment.
Maybe to drill hole for the leash at the front?
Or to place the box at the front? (I kinda wanted to have the box out of the way)
Actually yes, there is a bottom tab.
So when they write junction to case - they really mean - junction to tab…
Some possible new ESC’s:
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I bought two SEQURE 12200 ESC controllers. One has already burned out, the second cannot be set up. On a 12S battery the motor constantly jerks as if it is losing synchronization. I changed parameters such as Timing Advance and Sine Mod Power, but to no avail.
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Return to 0% on current sens calibration. Mine run like a charm. There is a current sensor on this one. Not on Flycolor X cross
I don’t have such a menu item in the ESC Config Tool. Maybe you are talking about Current Limit Amps?
Ah, you didn’t take the BLheli but AM 32. I don’t know this software. I start to be comfortable with blheli now, and I had the same behaviour as your at the beginning but since I found the “Current Sens calibration” adjusted at 100%, I compared with my setup on X cross which is 0%, and it’s great at this value now. It’s an offset in other words. So you reach the current protection very quick if this offset is not centered.
could you please provide a more detail description ?
Thrust? prope material? etc?
Using 12S battery, the maximum thrust is greater than 30kg, and the propeller and pod are made of nylon fiber. It is made by mold. Very light and strong. Use 4 mm square wire. The battery can be taken out and charged separately, or directly in the aluminum box. No need to bother opening the box every time. Use a BMS with a maximum duration of 80A. The instantaneous current can reach 120A. It can be connected to the mobile phone via Bluetooth and has temperature protection. and current protection. Charge and discharge protection. The battery status can be displayed on the mobile phone. The battery level can be displayed on the outside of the box. It can also be seen on the remote control.
those SEQURE 100A look like a good size to fit in the Smaller FD box, do they have the FETS on one size only?
Was looking at these ones below as a option .does anyone use these ESC’s??
Looks amazing, great result!
Is the whole thing PETG or have you added anything else for support? I ask because i am experimenting with a similar design but found that the PETG (and PETG-CF to a lesser degree) buckles under pressure, so interested to know how you keep it sealed?
I was thinking of adding some strategically placed aluminium inserts to help avoid buckling but judging by CAD skills you probably have a much stronger model than mine was so interested in your approach. I was using 7 layer wall thickness with 60% infill.
I am now trying aluminium box tube (100x25) with 6s2p flat packs each end (electronics in the centre).
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The guy building boards for fdgen2-max to be installed inside, underneath.
What do you think about the concept?
And also from the video - anti cavitation add-on:
Does somebody use it?
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This has been done by a few most notably @hangloose with the Ali box inset. I find this whole inset debate interesting as it works well on both sides of the board . Ive got a 65ltr board in the works witha deck inset but ultimately we are all trying to work around the drag issues and in old money" the hassles with deck clutter… everybody raves about the Gen2 FD but i also notice that virtually no one brings up the fact that after all FDs efforts to counter drag with the Gen 1 they’ve come up with a product that creates loads of it, leaves the cable externally mounted and doesnt solve that problem at all. In fact, they ignore it entirely whereas before it was an issue. So theyve got around drag related problems by producing more power with the new version…the theory being that once youre flying the massive box attached to the bottom is no longer an issue…classic “elephant in the room” marketing.
Anyway, the inset looks cool and Mike is no slouch having worked with Shinn and all sorts…i personally don’t like the idea of having the box underneath the board…its a similar solution to the same issue and a matter of preference i guess…horses for courses.
K
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Did you purchase an actual FD motor or did you find another source? The 6384 DIY motors I see have four holes for mounting prop hub. Cheers
Write sales4@saite-motor.com and ask for a 6384 130kV.
They have all 4 holes but the V1 3 blades FD uses just 3.
You have cheaper alternatives now with 6384 Flipsky, they advertised it on Instagram today !