Curious about why you would be so sure these would break?
even if one or more failed and the cone fell off (highly unlikely) you could still motor in.
Curious about why you would be so sure these would break?
even if one or more failed and the cone fell off (highly unlikely) you could still motor in.
Hi Kian, everyone,
I would also be interested in the baseplate. Keep me in the loop please.
Hi @Bertrand
We are about to order 10 this week.
I will keep you and @sharrow updated, but with a bit of luck we wil have them withing 2 to 3 weeks.
Curious how much your custom mastplate costs and also the weight. Nice work.
The weight of the “all-in-one” plate is 814 grams, which is obviously heavier than the original Gong plate, but not by much. The original Gong plate weighs 660 grams.
The “old” adapter plate I used weighed 750 grams, but it needed to be fixed to the Gong plate, resulting in a total weight of 1410 grams (1.4 kg), not including the weight of the 4 bolts and nuts.
Anyway. The “all-in-one” is about 42% lighter compared to my old version.
Would shipping also be possible to germany?
Sure. You could even pick it up if you like.
We live in the Netherlands.
Please note. We did not test the plate as is.
The plate fits perfectly in the fliteboard mounting pocket, and the Gong V2 mast fits nice and tide (like the original mast plate)
It is designed for a Flipsky 75200 VESC where we have removed the housing from.
You will be needing thermal cooling paste between the VESC and the baseplate!
I have been using my old plate setup for 2 season, and did not have any issues with it (ie: temperature never above 30c)
@Kian What are the benefits of the cutout in the mast to position the motor clamp? I’ve designed a similar clamp but without the cutout (still to be cnc’d), so wondering pros vs cons of the 2 versions.
The reason we made it like this was because of the footprint.
We take the eFfoil with us on a boat, and now the mast fits perfectly in one of the compartments.
I’ve made same clamp and i suggest you split it in half.
It is easier tomake it on CNC.
It will be held together by 6 screws anyway.
Could you please share the step file, thank you
Yo fam! Y’all ever mount an engine like this:
Peep my setup: it’s mad sturdy AND you can save on material without skimping on that durability.
Check my thread—kept it lightweight and solid AF, way easier to pull off!
In terms of stability you are right. But this is where the cables and the screws come through, it will get some designing troubles in addition I think. And also machining troubles maybe also. Please upload the step file of your design, actually it is only a 2d painting.
Dont see any real advantage on either, and this interface is not heavily loaded anyway. After all, the 3d printed stuff works if you just design it properly.
Sorry, no step file in my stash.
The battery 14s 37ah for the fliteair is finished. Done the leakage detection with some foam and compressed air after welding the polycarbonat case. Found 2 Spots where it leaked a little bit the first time. recommend to do that before thinking your case is water proof and put it into the water. Fits perfect in the board and uses every mm that is possible with the smaller inside of the fliteair.
Wow. That looks nice!
My dad is at this moment also working on a conversion for a Fliteair, and you are correct with the scrubbing.
We have removed about 1mm around from the plate, and it fits perfect now on all Fliteboards!
~Kian
@sharrow that’s a nice looking battery, well done!
@Kian do you mean you took 1mm off the aluminum adapter plate? I also have a FliteAir and last summer I was able to fit my existing Gong mast that I believe used an earlier version of your adapter plate. It’s a tighter fit but with the chamfered edge it could squeeze in
Yes. From the stock I have here it fits fine in any Fliteboard except the Fliteair.
A chamfer might have fixed it, but the 1mm (actually 0.7mm) fixed it too.
@sharrow mentioned it to us some time ago, and after he did some customizing to the plate all was okay.