But after half an hour with the 4S lipo , I change the lipo with the 6S, and with more power he fall and lose the foil but the foil didn’t stop => nightmare
Fortunately the foil comeback alone in my direction, I stop it with the circuit breaker.
Any idea of this issue ?
ESC temp, remote control
To prevent this, I will install a magnetic circuit breaker, directly attached to the rider, but it’s very strange, it’s my first issue after 10 sessions
We have experienced something similar. If the controller is smashed into the board, the throttle trim may be offset slightly(assuming you use the flysky rc remote). A decent arduino remote with a dead man’s button and programming should prevent this.
That’s where you can use the water at you advantage…
Most remotes signal will be blocked by water.
I designed mine (see DIY Waterproof remote) based on arduino, if the receiver looses signal for more than a second, it put the ESC at 0.
That will take care of the following scenario:
Rider fall (remote goes underwater)
Remote looses power
Throttle is blocked (unlikely with my design) but even if it happens, just put the remote under water or switch it off.
I agree with you it’s probably due to the remote
there was some water in the waterproof bag, and maybe the remote need a calibration
but I don’t understand why the motor didn’t stop after 4 or 5 meters, when it loses the signal of the remote.
and why all work well after turn on the power
So now i’m not very confiant to ride without a leash or circuit breaker
I had the same thing happening as @jeffM. After a crash the board took off towards the horizon. I was lucky, Don was able to chaise it with his Jetfoiler and turn it around so it came back to me. That was with my GT2B remote, it might have gotten a bit wet in the bag and caused a semi-short on the potentiometer. I then used the same winning remote, borrowed from my esk8, which didn’t have that issue. It also didn’t get wet. So if the reason was water on the remote side, the board should stop when you turn off the remote or when it gets out of reach. Still not a great feeling seeing your project disappear, am adding a kill switch before my next run.
This is a major issue that needs to be addressed. I can remember when we had the problem. When the remote was turned off the propeller slowly turned. Turning on the remote actually stopped it. It was really weird. At the time we had some connection issue use to water around the reciver antenna. Maybe the esc does not like to loose and connect so often. This could be solved with an arduino, as it can be programmed to always give proper signal to the esc, regardless of the remote.
My guess is that the remote somehow get the esc to act weird.
@jeffM@pacificmeister how are you intending to add the kill switch to your system. Does the kill switch control a relay which switches the main power to the ESC? Or can we get an electronic circuit breaker with a separate input that the kill switch connects to?
@Hiorth When the remote was turned off the propeller slowly turned. Turning on the remote actually stopped it.
That’s exactly what happened, when he fell propeller slowly turned, I stopped the foil with the circuit breaker into the box, and after I turning on the remote With no issue
Hello @jeffM, while the winning remote has a very good form factor, it is known to be unreliable. Unreliable in this case means it doesn’t have a great range and is prone for interference. That’s not good. However what is worse is that the fail safe function is very often not set properly. So when it looses connection the receiver holds a random throttle position.
You need to calibrate 0 throttle position for a better fail safe, see below. And you should test it on the bench by applying throttle and then walking away with the remote or switching it off.
And if you adjust throttle position via the small screw, you need to re.calibrate again.
Here the steps for binding and calibrating fail safe (throttle at 0 position)
Check and make sure all the wires are connected and that the REMOTE is OFF. Insert the bind plug into CH3(Bind) on the RECEIVER.
With the REMOTE OFF: switch on the ESC to power up the RECEIVER, the red LED light will flash.
PRESS and HOLD the bind button on the REMOTE and then turn the REMOTE ON.
You should notice the REMOTE and RECEIVER LED light go from flashing red to solid red.
Once you see a solid red light, the binding process is complete. Then without turning the REMOTE OFF or touching the THROTTLE pull the bind plug out (for the receiver to record the throttle mid point, neutral, to engage the fail safe)
Then you can test it again by turning OFF the REMOTE and the RECEIVER LED should flash. By turning the REMOTE ON the RECEIVER LED should go back to solid red.
Before riding, it’s better to test the fail safe functionality again. Leave the board powered on and switch the REMOTE off: if the motor isn’t moving, the fail safe function is working, if the motor is moving fast or abruptly braking while throttle is applied: you have to repeat step No.1- No.6
The Kilovac contactors look perfect but very expensive. How about a automotive starter relay? Or do you think this will have issues holding the current for long periods of time? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071YF2CX8/ref=dp_sp_detail?psc=1
