Nice , have you put tape on the holes for the mast ?
No, I detour to the dremel once dry…
US Box jacket, micro balloon with 4 layers of fiberglass, foil rail jacket, plus three layers of fiberglass remains more than the layer to finish in carbon fiber, hoping that this will be enough…
After finishing the installation of fiberglass ( 2 layers) on the tail nose and there box for electronics, a little paint: Tomorrow first flotation test in the neighbor’s pool, before landscape of the various cables and cooling hoses of the ESC, the installation of the hatch…
First test of the waterproofness of the boat deck hatch, After 15 minutes the board upside down and the hatch immersed no water drops inside. I then tested the foil in the water for another 15 minutes by dropping ( Tossing and turning in the boat ) the board to put pressure on the hatch and no water drops inside the compartment. I am a happy man. Next test I’ll have it towed by a boat.
You want to submerge the hatch a bit. The idea is to get it underwater like you are lying on the board.
That’s what I did in the second part of the test for 15 minutes as well, I’m doing a boat-drawn test next week.
1Er test pulled by a boat…it’s not a success because it’s very hard to put your pros backwards to desolate and then transfer the weight from front to back to stay stable out of the water… How do you @Riwi you who has the same editing as me and with a much shorter place…
For the sealing of the hatch I can’t comment today because I forgot to plug the suction and exaction hoses of the cooling system… so I had about the equivalent of a beer can in the compartment… Next test on August 7th
Hi Manu!
Regarding ridining. I would recommend that you go a bit slower with the boat. Start by lying down on the board until the board goes into plane. Carefully get up on all four, keep your weight to the front to keep the board from foiling
Get up on one knee, feel the balance. My board is very stable in planing speed.
Stand up, keep your weight to the front by leaning forward.
Find your balance and a nice position for your feet. When you feel ok, carefully shift your weight by moving your upper body backwards.
As your weight is shifted you will reach a point at which the board starts foiling, when this happens, move your upper body forward again to go back to planing.
Play with this until you feel that you have control and can go from planning to foiling and back.
If you go to fast the board will shoot out if the water when your weight is shifted. I personally think it easier to balance when standing up BUT you have to be at planing speed.
Hope this helps.
Go fly!!!
Rikard
I completely disagree with this method.
When riding behind a boat you don’t want to start lying down. It makes it way harder than it needs to be as you have to always have one hand on the tow rope.
Here are ways to start when towing:
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Start lying back in the water, pull the board against you feet with one hand and hold the rope in the other. The driver can very gently give a little throttle so that the board creates a resistance against your feet. At this stage put both hands on the rope and get the driver to pull you up. Similar start to a deep water wakeskate start.
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Start on you knees. then gradually stand up.
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The other method is to stand on the board just before the driver pulls. This is the fastest to get on your feet, but timing has to be pretty dead on.
Don’t bother trying to get the foil out until you are on your feet. It’s a lot easier to control when you are on your feet.
Here is a video showing the first method: How to: Hydrofoil Tutorial - Learn to Foil behind a boat with KiteBud on Vimeo
Today is a beautiful day, I did a 2nd test of my DIY board by being towed by a boat and listening to your advice on speed plus the advice of @pimousse de ESK8.fr who made me happy to join me for this beautiful afternoon, we managed to fly on our knees on the board and as a bonus the box to accommodate the electronics is waterproof, not a drop of water after 2:30 ride and fall.
A video is in progress.