Same idea, flush design … the gland
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Nice Enata board, I like it’s nose buyancy 
A wide flat and short version of that in carbon foam core would make an excellent tow boogie platform.
I wish I could add rocker to my Manta polyethylene boogie board, it has so little rocker in order to duck dive easily. I have thought about heating it up with a heat gun to bend the nose up. Actually, one option might be to cut a v-groove across the board where I want the rocker, and then use a couple of heat guns to heat bond the board back together. When you’re foiling on flat water sections at speed, it’s only the back half of the boogie board touching the water because it’s planing.
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Hi, could you share stl archives?
thanks
Nose buoyancy is all sorted now, with no more submarine nose dives in short period chop. I added a 45 degree section of closed cell onto the foam I had already added. Bostik contact adhesive sticks very well to the closed cell foam.
Nothing sticks to the PE surface of the boogie board, hence why i used three piece plug/clamps that hold the foam onto the nose of the boogie, as per earlier photos.
The name should probably be changed to Tug Boogie, with the new nose.
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this is just awesome work. masterpiece. I’m still in progress of building my eFoil but since then I’ve got into surf foil & dockstart. So having freedom under my feet is just second to none.
I’m going to build a Tow Boogie ! Kudos for the inspiration.
Likely NESE 13S8P or 14S8P on 21700. Custom DIY board full carbon. Peli 1470 case on top. Maker X ESC.
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I’ve just started building a tow boogie similar to @Valhalla and @Jatem . Has anyone experimented with mounting the motor off-center to remove the need for a trim tab?
I’m 95kg and I don’t use a trim tab on a 75l wing board. Going to try the 60L board and see if that works in the next few days.
I’ve tried offsetting the tow point either side of the 25mm box section, and it didn’t work that well. It made turning one way difficult.
If buying a body board new go for a 42” or bigger. I got a 46” from rebel sports in Aus for $100. Also look for a “dual stringer” one, otherwise you need to cut the central stringer for the mast and the board looses all its strength.
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The gland idea mentionned above is doing its discrete revolution. With this “nose” detail, wondering if it isn’t time for an XPS version of the boogie …
Interesting. …and doable. The SUP and wing adapters could make a good starting point. It would free one hand which could be nice.
Though, letting go of the tow rope means that the remote goes with it.
I like to keep the remote in hand. It allows for tow boogie retrieval after letting go of the rope.
It would require some retraining for those accustomed to driving with one hand and shifting with another so-to-speak.
yes got you. I’m going to try a 3D printed mount and attach the remote with the handle bar… I’m not sure I would be able anyway to guide the tow to towards me when not controlling the rope
I initially considered putting the remote on the tow handle, but it’s not something I would do now. I let go of the handle and pump around to catch multiple waves with the tow boogie parked, and then pump over to the boogie and start up the throttle again so that I can pick up the handle while foiling along. That way I don’t need to do another a waterstart, which extends the duration of my session significantly. I’m out catching waves for about 2 hrs 30 on a good day.
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mmm, you convinced me. I can clearly see how you are using it!
Updated the tow handle so it doesn’t submarine as often when I’m looking for a foiling pickup, after riding a wave. It’s only 85mm wide. The bigger handle was pulling under the water when the towb was driving alongside me on good sized swell. This small handle weighs 28g and does an ok job at bouncing around on the surface. A higher tow point would keep the handle above the water, but I want the tow point low for water starts, to keep the nose of the towb from rising up too much.
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The tow handle above is ok, but it gets a bit fatiguing to hold for a long time.
I designed a hollow 3d printed handle which is filled with PU expanding foam, similar to what you would use in a Bremote. This new handle is very lightweight, more streamlined, comfortable to hold, and it has rounded ends that don’t damage your foil board. It has low drag, so it doesn’t get pulled under the water too much, which makes it good for the all important foil pumping tow handle pickups you should be doing, so that you save heaps of runtime and get more waves. It’s my preferred tow handle.
I also built a new tow boogie, and squeezed more battery into the same overall weight. I’ve put 13s9p into roughly the same sized polycarbonate case and pelican 1450. I’ve used Samsung 50e2 high capacity cells, with an expected capacity of 25% more than the 13s8p Samsung 40T3 pack I was previously using. I’m using the Axis ART 1201 most of the time in small conditions, and the cruise efficiency is around 65wh/km, with 750-800W.
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That’s amazing efficiency! I’m almost double that.
I’m usually on a 1125cm2 wing, travelling at 20-25kph, weighing in at 95kg.
My boogie by its self when I’m on a wave uses up 2000w+ just to keep up.
Part of my tow handle redesign was an effort to reduce power consumption while the boogie is alongside me on swell, as typical ski handles create heaps of drag. And to allow a high rate of foiling handle pickups, which need the handle near the water surface. I’ll have to measure the power usage while on a wave.
Hi i am using the Erayfoil with Go-FOC G300 - MakerX and have problem if I am 10 meters away or more from the receiver , the signal strength is good in remote but the throttle level gets bad , it stops and start etc . if i move closer it works fine but built a two boogie and need to be about 10 meters away 
Any ideas ? How far away from receiver does your remote work with fine throttle signal ?
my mail jesper@bremme.se pls help me
I also cant find the supplier contact ? Bought it on Aliexpress
You should ask your question here so that all the 89 contributors can see it…
Hi i am using the Erayfoil with Go-FOC G300 - MakerX and have problem if I am 10 meters away or more from the receiver , the signal strength is good in remote but the throttle level gets bad , it stops and start etc . if i move closer it works fine but built a two boogie and need to be about 10 meters away
Any ideas ? How far away from receiver does your remote work with fine throttle signal ?
my mail jesper@bremme.se pls help me
I also cant find the supplier contact ? Bought it on Aliexpress