Hey @Jesserosco Are you willing to share your STL files for this ESC mount? It looks great and I don’t see a reason to create one if this one is available?
I will 100% share it with you just DM me your email. I will say I do not use this setup anymore. I found it held in too much heat and I didn’t like it. I find that using thermal epoxy or glue directly on the heatsink works way better and is a lot less work to put together and comes apart easy if you need to change anything.
Many thanks, I’ll take your advice and stick it direct.
Hey @Jesserosco when you cover your blades in Epoxy, are you dipping or painting it on? Are you adding tiny bits of fiberglass to the epoxy mix for strength, or just straight resin? Maybe I’m overthinking this ?? 
I don’t do anything anymore except sand them smooth. I haven’t had any issues without epoxy. But, when I did I used a brush to put it on, nothing additional added.
I’ve been running the mateksys pro BEC’s on my 3 tow boogies and they seem to perform a lot better. I haven’t had any weird anomalies like signal dropping for no reason, etc… I’ve also been leaving the RX board unplugged until after I plug the battery in.
Any issues without circlips on a non-folding prop?
I haven’t had any issues with the motors that I cut the shaft on, but I have had 2 rotors fall to the bottom of the sea on the motors I didn’t cut the shaft on. I keep the circlips on the motors I don’t cut the shafts on now.
Thanks. That’s a result I wasn’t expecting. I’ve cut my shafts, but left the circlip groove on, so will use circlips.
Ya it through me off when it happened. Again, I haven’t had any issues with the cut shaft motors not having a circlip. The non cut rotors slide on and off so much easier/smoother than the cut ones.
1 Like
@Jesserosco finally getting there, setting up the Flycolors now, Just checking “Non Damped Mode = On”, and I assume for the other ESC the Motor direction is Reserved? Sorry for copying exactly but I just want to get this thing in the water for some testing and then I’ll do more research when I tweak it later 
Thanks.
setting non damped mode will remove some protections, and i don’t think you need the theoretical ”punch” difference on a foil drive, efoil or tow boogie - I would set mode to damped.
I have mine set to “non-damped mode = on”. I have never turned it off so I don’t know how much difference it makes. You can either reverse direction or swap to of the motor phase wires to get the motor spinning in the direction you want. I usually just swap phase wires. You won’t know until after you run the motor the first time, but yes the right (starboard) motor should turn clockwise and the left (port) should turn anti-clockwise.
2 Likes
This is really useful and something I hadn’t factored. With this set up do you still mirror your props or are they identical on each motor?
You will need to mirror one of the props.
1 Like
It could be a factor in the ESC:s breaking, didn’t you have a flycolor that died?
It definitely could be, but I honestly don’t know. The only thing I changed since I blew one up was I turned the current protection off and haven’t had any other issues. I also don’t know if somehow my phase wires might have shorted to each other because I noticed that the heatshrink around the bullet connectors melted. I have since made a divider using PC to prevent them from coming into contact. I tried using PETG, but the connectors got hot enough to deform the PETG.
I was also having issues with the cheaper MATEKSYS Bec’s as well, but the MATEKSys Pro BEC’s have been working awesome.
This video (with a great Kiwi accent ) was helpful for me to explain the damp-mode feature, which is a basic regenerative braking feature. To me, [non-damped = on] mode would be better as there is no need to quickly slow the motors or re-gen power into the battery, the resistance of the water on a fixed prop would cause it to slow down very fast anyway. On the flipside, if the inertia after throttle-off causes the fixed props to spin the other way, there might be some back-current which may have the potential to damage the ESC? Keen to hear more about how this mode might have caused damage.
I think it’s more than regen, believe there’s some info on it in the blheli manual.
1 Like
It is primarily intended for quadcopters. It just runs the motors more precisely to the current throttle signal. This makes quad flight more stable and responsive. I don’t think it is needed for our use case, but likely would not have much effect either way.