JDubs Dual Motor Tow Boogie

So I started out set to build a DIY Foil Assist when I came across these forums researching for the build and when I saw Valhalla’s, Jatem’s and a few other peoples “Tow Boogies” I had to build one. I was planning on building a 12s8p pack with P42a’s that I have when I came across a guy selling a burned up E-foil that sold me all his electronics for super cheap which included a 12s16p battery made with 18650’s that was in good condition minus the BMS was toast. Here is what I am running.

CBC Sushi soft top surfboard
2 x cheap 6384 120kv out runners
2 x Flipsky 70a VESC’s
Pelican 1450 case
Flipsky remote… building a BREmote now
I got STL files from other members on this forum for the motor pods and props.

This thing is so much fun!!! I have only been able to take it out a few times, but it works really good! I’m 190lbs riding a 56L wing/prone board, Armstrong 1125 foil and has no issues getting me going with ease. I am going to try my prone boards this weekend, one 33L and a 27L and I think it will have no problem. I am building a BREmote to have directional control and because the BREmote is a far more rugged, simple, awesome waterproof design then the other ones I have seen.

I just want to help share the stoke if anyone has questions about my build. There is already all the information you could need to build this stuff in the forums, but if I can contribute in any way please let me know.

I will post pics and vids soon

UPDATE 20 Sep 2023
A few locals where I am at asked me to come up with a list of stuff I used so I thought I would post it here. I tried to add a word document, but it won’t add the attachment, so here is the super long post.

Tow Boogie Build

This is just a list of things I personally used to build my current setup. There are a few different styles and builds of “Tow Boogies” and a ton of information that can be found on https://foil.zone/ and just search “tow boogie”.

I highly encourage you to read all the different builds to see what fits your needs and budget. I personally like the dual motor and there isn’t much information on them, but I am more than happy to help if I can. It is pretty straight forward and a lot of throw it on and see if it works. Having a good 3D printer and a little knowledge on electronics is a must. I am not an engineer by any stretch of the imagine.

I tried to find the parts on amazon and link them here, but I ordered most things from AliExpress. It is cheaper to order from AliExpress, but generally takes a couple weeks to get your parts if you are not in a rush. There are some parts that I could only find on AliExpress.

Parts List:

    1. CBC Sushi 5’ 8” soft top
    • a. Any board will do, but I highly encourage something with a little rocker in the nose. A lot of people use boogie boards, but per a recommendation on the chat and finding a couple of these on craigslist for cheap I went with this.
    1. Flipsky electric speed controller 70a x 2
    • a. You need 2 of these one for each motor.
    • b. This is the minimum power output I would recommend and you could go with a higher amperage speed controller, but this one suits my needs.
    • c. This is a VESC and is very programmable using the VESC tool and can control all the settings and there is a lot of good information on setting these up.
    • d. You could also use a couple regular ESC’s that are cheaper and more powerful to get great results too.
    1. Motors 6384 120KV outrunner x 2
    • a. You do not need sensors and will have to remove them if the motor comes with them.
    • b. For waterproofing its best to change the bearings to ceramic, which I will link. I also soak the motors in Corrosion X which you can buy at west marine and I think Grainger.
    1. Pelican case 1450
    • a. This is what I am using because I have a very large battery, but you can get a size that fits your needs. I like the Pelican branded quality, though a little more expensive, but keeps the electronics safe.
    1. Flipsky Waterproof Remote
    • a. This is one option for a remote. Quality control is hit or miss on the waterproofing.
    1. Maytech Waterproof Remote
    • a. Another good option. Quality control is hit or miss on the waterproofing.
    1. BREmote waterproof Remote
    • a. This is what I am using. It is a DIY and works way better than the ones you can purchase. Link is to the build forum and the guy (Ludwig Bre) that designed it is extremely helpful.
    1. 6900 Ceramic Bearings for motor
    • a. You will need 1 per motor if you want to make the motor a little more waterproof
    • b. Choose “6900 10x22x6mm”
    1. 6800 Ceramic Bearing for motor
    • a. You will need 2 per motor if you want to make the motor a little more waterproof
    • b. Choose “6800 10x19x5mm”
    1. 3M 5200 fast cure sealant
    • a. This can be purchased at west marine or on amazon
    • b. Its needed for sealing thru holes in the pelican case
    1. 4mm bullet connectors
    • a. I use these to connect the phase wires, but I am going to try some different options.
    1. 12/3 AWG wire
    • a. I use Ancor marine wire. I have a roll and would be happy to sell you 10 feet for $10, way cheaper than west marine.
    • b. You can use whatever 12awg wire or larger and will need 3 lines going to each motor from the battery box.
    1. Aluminum Plate
    • a. The biggest limitation to the speed controllers is heat and I used aluminum plate connected to the speed controllers on the outside of the box to cool them off quicker and it works really well, but I am rethinking the design.
    1. The battery pack
    • a. This is going to be the most expensive and most difficult thing to source. I am using a 12s16p 18650 battery pack from an efoil that I bought from a guy cheap.
    • b. I have the batteries to build a 12s8p 21700 pack that would provide more power, but not as long runtime.
    • c. If you do not know how to build your own battery pack you will have to find somewhere that does and it will be expensive.
    • d. LI-ION BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS AND IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING IT COULD LEAD TO SERIOUS INJURY, DEATH, BURNING DOWN YOUR HOUSE ETC… DO IT AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
    1. Battery Charger
    • a. This will need to be ordered to your specific needs and battery size.
    1. XT90S anti-spark connectors
    • a. To connect speed controllers to battery
    • b. This might be different depending on the battery pack you use.
    • c. I use one of these per speed controller connected to a single QS8-S connector
    1. QS8-S connector
    • a. Main battery connector
    1. Miscellaneous Stuff
    • a. Solder gun
    • b. Heat shrink of different sizes
    • c. Im sure there are a lot of small things that will be application specific
    • d. Bolts to hold the motor pods, different plates to attach things to the board, you’ll just have to be creative.
    1. 3D printed motor pods
    • a. Design from another forum member.
    1. 3D printed props
    • a. Design from another forum member. I use PETG and cover in epoxy
    1. 3D printed tow cable attachment
    • a. This helps keep the nose of the board down when pulling up to foil and attaches to 1” aluminum square tubing.
    1. Tow rope
    • a. Make sure you get something that floats

I am sure there are things I am missing, but please contact me for any help. After writing this list it seems a bit overwhelming, but its not that difficult. After I had the parts together it took me a couple long nights to get it put together and working.

10 Likes

I believe that you will have problems starting on boards 33L and 27L, but in any case I wish you good luck and look forward to the video and photo report.

I tried my 27L, just a couple tries. Did not succeed, but I think it’s possible with a ton of practice on the pop up. I think my 33L will be more manageable, but my 56L goes super easy. I finally finished my BREmote build with long range and differential steering and it works phenomenal. Now that everything is working good I can make it look a bit nicer. Probably swap the horribly cut plywood for aluminum.

4 Likes

Congratulations ! This definitely opens up new possibilities. Would you have pictures of your boogie, especially the bottom ?


Props are off cause I’m changing to an ASA nylon set and re-coating the motors in corrosion x.

3 Likes

The range of the remote control is truly impressive.

It really is. I was letting it go a lot farther away when I was out foiling to test it out and it was amazing, especially coming from a flipsky remote that would lose signal if I didn’t hold the remote up as I was getting up.

I decided to use a folding propellers, since the blades often break, especially during transport. However, one of the motors needs a quick-release folding lock. I’m still thinking about its design.

I was thinking about trying an SLS print. My only concern is that SLS soaks up water.

Safety wise, with such a long range signal, how would you kill it if something goes wrong ? Does releasing the trigger completely stops the boogie immediately ?

Here is SLS. I find it expensive and doesn’t have much benefit other than looks. Bambu PLA is my choice.

I’m using a PETG covered in epoxy for my blades with no problems so far. I tried the ASA this morning and the first throttle pull ripped the blades off, no epoxy.

It just stops quickly and if it loses link it also stops.

Do you find the folding setup is more powerful?

I didn’t find any difference in power. The advantage is that it is much cheaper and faster to replace one broken blade rather than the entire propeller.

Here is an example of printing with Bambu PLA filament. No post-processing, printed without supports, works well.


NO SUPPORTS!! Those look super nice. Please share your secrets to that magic printing. I’m running a Prusa Mk3+.

There are no secrets here, just Bambu Lab X1C magic with default settings.

Those are sweet looking printers! If I was buying one today that’s what I would get. Did you have any other printers before? Comparison?

This is just a super device. I had several Enders before this. Now I have an ENDER 5 S1, which is covered in dust - completely useless crap. I think Bambu has truly revolutionized 3D printing and made it as easy to use as an electric kettle. All I have to do is insert the filament and send the print job, then remove the print, clean the plate and send a new job. The printer performs bed calibration, flow calibration, print quality control, and filament trimming.
Printing is very fast: for example, the motor mount on your Boogie prints in 11 hours with 90 percent infill.
They use a modified Prusa slicer, so preparing models for printing is familiar.