Yes - North East. You’ve got a greater chance of swell in the SW in the summer.
Have a great time. Car looks 
Looks great. What motor mount did you use? And where did you get the strap for it?
FYI I am building a similar setup but going to have 2 x 12S1P batteries (one in front and one behind the central ESC area… to give 12S2P at one cell thick). Using 100x25mm aluminium tube.
Thanks
That Flpsky one is pretty hard to use, it struggles on the entry and exit to the water which is a big part for an assist product.
Locally We pretty much all use the FD 3 blade now, WE have designed up couple of Hubs but don’t seem to be as smooth at the original FD one.
My little plate adapter is on Pintables for you can put on the Flpsky motor.
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I agree on the flipsky, tested it twice on a friends build, ok for a efoil but on an assist there is a big braking effect when it start to cavitate a gets in/out of water.
Three blade handle that better IMO.
@lishine did you test your FD style prop with lower pitch blades?
Will use the assist a lot on the summer trip, so it may be the time to prepare a spare prop 
Hello, added your writup as PDF into the Onshape document, hope that is OK for you?
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Yesterday, I had a great assist pumpfoil session.
I made an extra battery using VTC6 cells, which worked well. For this session, I used the Flysky prop, and it performed very nicely for me. However, I was using a large foil and haven’t tried any 3-blade propellers yet so those might work even better.
I’ve printed a few 3-blade props, but I haven’t tested them so far.
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What do you mean?
FD blades have specific shape, pitch and finish…
You use the original fd blades?
In our tests we noticed that 3d printed fd scanned blades are weaker than the original and cannot work half submersed
@salomon
The setup looks very nice!
Do you use it also in salt water?
@Bzhwindtalker
Did you use your under board setup in salt water?
@rttn
You said that you wait for your setup to break, but it doesn’t happen. You use it in non salt water , right?
Yes used it a lot of Times in salt water. But 70% fresh water
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I haven’t used it in salt water yet because the sea isn’t close. I want to make sure everything’s working properly first. I had a good session today, though, so it’s looking promising. I’ll try it in the sea soon.
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Congrats for your nice project.
Which model/ref is it and material you printed in ?
Your SS “Longer screws” are A2 so might rust in SW. A4 (or 316) doesn’t.
Bambu PETG-CF
Bambu PC
Bambu PPA-CF
Thank you for the tip on of the screws!
Not exactly, I usually spend my summer vacation on the Black Sea. The rest of the time on the Gulf of Finland or a lake.
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I asked Adam to share his project files and he kindly agreed. However, I completely missed that the project used 18650 cells. So the typical capacity in a 12s2p configuration is about 6A/h? What runtime do you get on average using the foil assistant as an efoil?
It is not designed to e-foil, I get 20 minutes max with pumping foil and my 67kg.
I count the system as a 15-20 starts system.
With 3.6kg total, that is very lightweight.
With the new 21700 coming, like eve 50pl or moli m65a (26A continuous/6500mah) having a 21700 version in 1P or 2p would be even more efficient for this use case, but I dont see how it would fit the box between the mast screws.
I’d also like to use a 21700 configuration, and based on what I can see, it could work. I believe it can even be made backward-compatible with the 18650 batteries we’ve already built.
I’ll try to work on it soon—there are still a few improvements I’d like to make. I’m not satisfied with the seal on the waterproof XT90 connector, and I’d also like to add a locking mechanism for the motor connector, as it occasionally comes loose.
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I did some additional testing yesterday.
I’m really liking this Sabfoil setup—it significantly reduces setup time. I’m currently using a different motor pod and experimenting with multiple foil configurations.
I’ve noticed that swapping batteries tends to leave some scratches on the board.
I definitely need to add a cable guide to the motor pod—without the tape, there was significant cavitation.
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The battery is sligthly shorter in height that the controller housing, but not by mutch.
Maybe add a layer of foam ro rubber between the controller housing and the board? that would offset it away from the board and create more space for the battery.
Agree with you on the connector lock, it is anoying to loose connection and dangerous to fillddle with it in the water. I always power off the remote when doing so.
For me it mostly comes loose in hard crash.
I would suggest that you can raise your pod closer to the board based on the video.
For XT90, I add a lot of grease on the seal, and I chamfered around 0.5mm the connector edges to make insersion smoother.
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One time during a session my connector fell out 5 times, and as much as I hate M3 screws on the spot, I had to make this cover.
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I did some repairs on my unit and added foam as we discussed @salomon
My antenna tray was an earlier added version and my kid broke it, cutting the antenna. So the system has two antenna solder joints now, hope to still get good signal.
Received the material for two extra battery, I will print that during the weekend.
Still undecided about what cell to use, p28A or 35E (both I have stock) or order some vtc6
l
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