Leave the rod out and 3D print a drill jig. That way you will get a perfect section to drill.
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If this hub is the same as the one in the photo, I downloaded it too and found it to be quite odd, with lots of artifacts within the model. So I completely rebuilt it. It’s not perfect, but it works. The PPA-CF blades also work on 12S.
I made it! I’m not a professional though. I uploaded a v2, where I basically removed the negative step to the blades.
Yours looks way cleaner 
I also don’t consider myself a professional and have only the most basic skills.
I printed V2 and will test assemble with the blades
The blade root was a little wide, had to sand them down on each side. The blades do to fully fold, is it also the case on your tests?
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I haven’t had the time to do it yet. I also have this problem with my Alu blades, when I tighten the screws too much. The ones for the blades and the ones that connect the hub to the motor
Will test that during tomorrow lunch break, fresh 6384 120kv and cf fd style prop.
It is 90 gr more than the 6374 maytech setup
Code red on the small lake
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I tested the cf prop and setup with 6384, it is all good and super smooth, as far as noise, vibration and power. I had set a 3100rpm limit in the vesc.
Could start the 1050cm2 easily with the big board.
Had also some struggle and success with the parawing
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V4 1+assist going well with carbon blades.
Noticed some cracks in the Ppa-cf hub, will order a sls pa12 version to be safe.
6384 is super smooth and powerful.
Will work on a way to place the antenna in the tracks and avoid it from moving, had issues both on the surf foil and dw board, where the antenna moved mid session, resulting in signal issues.
With pumping and light wind parawing, I could get 1h+ for one 12s1p battery.
Changed my board leash from telephone style to extendable dynema, it is much better for parawing and total weight.
@Bzhwindtalker looking good on your V4!
I’ve noticed my 12s2p pack gets a bit too warm after pushing (50amps max set on ESC) it and I’ve been wondering how would a 12s1p behave.
Would you mind sharing what max amps you’ve got yours set and how does it feel?
Thanks,
Jordi
Hey, what cells do you have?
The big foil, lots of pumping, long and narrow board, and my weight all makes for reasonable Amp need (50A is set in the vesc) and very fast takeoff. The cells for this pack are p45b, but I need to try 50PL and other tabless cells next.
Phase amps is still set at 165A from the maytech setup issues.
With the small board and motoring upwind, battery gets hot but very reasonable.
I don’t know how realistic my use case is, as I can do almost the same thing with 12s2p 18650 with 35E cell, which in theory is a very marginal setup and would be considered unusable by most, yet I can get on foil with battery down to 3.3v, even with small board.
Ouch! Didn’t thought about the whole setup, which obiously has a big impact.
I’ve been running a png1050 (big pumping wing) on 8s2p p42 without any issues for quite some time.
Recently moved to a smaller setup and started using 12s2p on a 4’2’’ board and 1100cm2 wing for more surfy setup and that’s the one is getting quite warm.
I’ve got my gen2 FD copy and thinking would be nice to try it on 12s but the only configuration possible would be 1p. Not quite sure if the cells would cope on such a discharge rate.
They’ll be again the p42 so technically I could set the esc to 35amps or so and stand up from a bump/wave maybe? I guess a mid length board would help quite a bit as well …
The simple/backup plan for flying to morocco holiday this winter, 5S2P Batteries I already have and adapters in a waterproof waist bag I already have.
I will make a fake battery adapter to plug a cable extension from the bag to the existing assist system. Main issue is to route the power cable in a way that it will not be chewed by the prop easily.
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This is how I secure the cable to the board using a cable holder secured to the rear of the track. I saw a picture of this idea on the duotone and boost version.
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Hi, Adam, I’ve went through season 2 and 3 posts trying to understand what kind of resin you are using to improve battery waterproofness 
In season 2 there is a screenshot of what it looked like general purpose epoxy (green metal can). I haven’t tried yet and have only been reading, but from what I understood the hard epoxy can prevent/affect natural cell expansion during the pack heating while being in use.
What’s you personal experience with that, have you swapped to different methods in the recent past?
I’ve found that from what it looks like an industry standard is to you use temperature resistant Polyurethane that cures semi rigid and is often has good resistance to fire.
Here a couple of products I’ve found this morning:
- https://www.dolphs.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/07/vonRoll_Flyer_BatterySolutions_2022_web.pdf
- EV Battery Potting & Encapsulation Compounds | Epic Resins - Manufacturer of Epoxy Resins and Polyurethane Compounds
Will keep researching and update the post if find something decent!
Hello, I use normal deep pour epoxy.
This prevents the epoxy from going thermal during potting. However you are right, it gets pretty rigid and hard.
I potted up to 3kwh pack with 3kg of epoxy in this way, and 7 assist packs in 12s2p and 12s1p.
I think you are right and that a specialized PU encapsulation resin would be more suitable.
Cylindrical cells should have very little expension, but they can still vent under some conditions. I think this is still quite safe for small packs, and the mechanical and waterproffness strength ougthweigth the other risks. I would not do a big pack again with epoxy.
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All good, from my side just researching. I currently own 1 FD battery it also seems to be potted with epoxy.
Ongoing work
Then I will do a plate under the mast that will be used to fix the phase cable and the pod.
This is pretty simple, but I dont know how well I can expect the bag seal to hold under crash or wipeout situations. One of the ideas is to be able to use a silicon tupperware lid as extra safety, going over the whole assembly inside the bag.
The flipsky 6.7 pro is an experiment, it will likely be underpowered, but with a lower pitch FD style prop, it may be workable (maytech 6374 for illustration purposes only!!)
I tried the 70a 6.7 pro and it overtemped in 13sec. You need to heatsink both saides as the themal escape is not good at all so the cpu overtemps.
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