Great that you got it going on the small board with just some setup tuning and skill building 
This also emphasis some expectation management for new builders / riders, where one can expect to go direct to the “pro” setup, small board, small foil, and have a bad time due to settings/build/skills not being ready. So first start reasonable with a big board and foil to get it all sorted out is not a bad advise to give 
Thanks for the feedback on VESC express logger, I will look into it tomorow.
Printing that for my wife to try efoiling again, 200mm extension with brace to mast, will use a flex-starp nano to hold it.
With my printer and spool changer living outside, at least I know PETG is fully dry by now in france 
Are you sure it will hold up? That is a pretty big lever on the connection at the housing, even with the attachment on the mast.
Anyways it is a good idea to get the wife excited for this sport 
I am still out of luck with that 
It worked, but the prop failed the minute my wife was ready to test it in the water 
. I was able to find the missing piece, very clear water.
Is that your own hub design?
I wanted to fix this a long time ago.
Design it so the 3 parts that are now separated print separate in correct layer direction, extend them a bit so they intersect with the base and glue them in. Alternatively also put a small screw through the base into that part.
That should eliminate all issues with hubs like that.
I just do not have a good quality base to start off.
Hub from @foilstate, printed in ppa-cf, 5 sessions. Very lucky that it failed in shallow water.
Will get pa12 version to be safe
lol
Maybe just make 2 or 3 holes through the hub and glue some screws in as a quick fix until you receive pa12 hubs. This should be enough to withstand sheering forces regardless the print orientation.
Not my hub, but prints in PPA seems to have high Z axis strenght variation depending on the orienation and filament humidity/print conditions.
Last week I was parawinging with my modified bar and one of the PPA-GF bar ends just broke in two mid session, first part in petg-cf also broke.
so probably now I will spend more in PA12 prints and less in exotic filaments!! 
27 euros shipped for two hubs and two bases at prototi 
how is PA12 with salt water im wondering if it will start absorbing water ?
I think this is the way to do it. So you can print the individual parts in the right orientation.
Did not get to finish it though and the base model is not great (I probably did some prior mods, that broke the geometry).
Would be nice to do this off a good base.
For materials, CF/GF are good for looks and temp resistance, but weaker in layer adhesion.
Another option to try would be to print this in solid TPU.
Looks good, if you replace the M3 hex nuts with heat inserts you get a bit more material around the weak spot.
Successful test today on my silghtly modified version of the light assist 3 design. my version is using 14s p45b molicels and design changes allows me to use foildrive hp motor with latest blue props. I am around 70kg on 4ft2in prone surf board code 980 wing (biggest I have) and I have too much power at full throttle, have to carefully manage the trigger on takeoff, very small clean surf today so basicly flat water starting. using flipsky 71500 pro, test results as follows. signal to the controller is not as good as my og foildrive but useable if I keep the nose of the board out of the water. initial motor start is quite savage and I have to manage throttle carefully, no other issues to report so far, should be able to get a 30 to 45min surf session no problem, lighter weight makes pumping much easier for my at least. Does anyone have any suggestion on how to tune vesc for a softer start??
If you don’t need max speed you could reduce max phase current (assuming you use current control). That helped in my setup, I reduced max phase current from 120 to 90A. You can also adjust throttle curve to have more trigger way in the lower end.
Limit max power in W in VESC tool.
I have mine capped at 1900W.
Limiting current also works, but using power is better at the end of the session. Using power limiting the VESC compensates voltage drop with higher current.
thanks for suggestions, will try it and report back. really pleased that it works at all, mine is all 3d printed in petg and seems to be holding up to the stress under load so far
Wired a second 12s1p battery (bak50D) but did a holy mess 
The carnage started with a leaky resin potting, (forgot about leaking tru xt90 holes) and swelling battery tray, making the insertion in the assist really hard.
Then I figured out the xt90 was backed out by 1-2mm and the contact is not on the right area of the xt90s.
I compensated by opening the gel to move the assist side connector forward by 2mm.
Happy about my fix, I went forward and plugged in the balance board, to find out that I wired the balance upside down (reversed magnet poles) and burn the balance board
Well thats a few productive evenings 
The other thing I did was to add 2mm carbon rods in the remaining hub to prevent splitting again. Parts were shipped from prototi but will not arrive until holidays at the sea next weekend.
I will test the alu prop and battery tomorrow to make sure it works 
I tested the BAK battery and it works very well, now that I fixed the contact of the assist. I will figure out later how to handle the balance leads, and monitor the cells voltages for the time being. I need to check the data logging now to get more usefull data (battery sag and recovery). Great session chasing some boat waves.
I am testing a new high AR <1000cm2 wing, it is very efficient and suprisingly easy.
I even got it paddle flat started (no motor), wich was my physical challenge until the end of 2026, the goal was to be able to sart a 1000cm2 wing. I will replace my 1050 barracuda L with this new wing when it comes out.
Next few days I will be in Arcachon on the West coast, I will bring the small board and assist with 4’2.
The 5085 is 100% validated for me, and the alu prop works about the same as the TI one as far as I can tell. I had sanded the back edges that had some extra thickness from the printing process and did not experiance caviation issues.
Most parts have arrived and i tested and prepared a lot of components. Motor is already running with remote working as well.
For now i use a bench power supply which has not enough amps. Configured the ESC in VESC Tool for 5 battery amps just for testing. This works but i need to spin up the motor by hand to get it started. Do you know if this is a common problem and will be fixed once battery amps is set higher?
I have everything prepared to start welding my battery. Ive got a kWeld with the kCap PSU solution. As this is my first battery im not sure about how many joules to use for this welding job. Ive got the same copper nickel strip bzhwindtalker used in his builds. Can you give me an estmation of how many joules i would use.
Any tips are welcomed, ill keep you updated how it goes!
For the wellgo ali strips, I use 24 to 25J with Kweld. Best is to do some tests on a spare cell.
I think your motor should spin without your help. Without load it draws almost no amps to spin at 100%. But I have not idea what could cause that problem.
Maybe you have a Lipo for your kWeld? I did my first motor tests with the 3S LiPo I use with my kWeld, too.
