Curious if you can start the 4’2 with 5085 on flat water?
On the dw board I have found that about 1.3kW are sufficient to get up for me. Pretty sure even less is possible with some technique. So for a DW Board configuration the 5085 makes definitely more sense than a 6085 or even 6075.
Hello, I think I had tested it successfully back in may, but only with big foil so far.
I wanted to test it at the sea but waves conditions were not great.
There was good parawing conditions for pw-assist, unfortunately the second Ppa-cf prop hub broke again despite the 2mm cf rods drilled/ glued in Z axis.
The alu prop was lost, I tried to find it by low tide but maybe someone else picked it up, or it drifted futher away in the mud.
I think I need to get a mid lenght ~65lt board for unassisted pw and prone, the 25lt is too extreme unless it’s nuking, and the 95lt 7’ is not easy to transport. Car was full!!
Tested the new to me sib I picked on the way by anchoring on the side of the canal, with work boats coming back to port, but harder to exploit without assist!!
SIB, will make enough waves to surf, small but clean.
Wow, run starting from a SIB is a nice idea!
Did you anchor the SIB to make that run start work? Or does it have enough inertia?
Edit:
Just read you have anchored it. Interesting option. So the anchor was the only thing holding that SIB?
What a pity with that lost prop 
I am also thinking about a mid length in a size in between those two boards. Maybe even something with a trench for the assist.
Hello Adam,
Where did the hub broke ? I just received titanium blades from prototi (90euros), I would really like not to lose those 3 blades.
I printed my hub in PAHT GF (and also in PET GF) 8 walls, 45% gyroid infill, 0.6mm nozzle.
Maybe the best solution is to order an aluminium hub from prototi ?
Thanks,
Hello, it broke like that
I will replace by pa12 parts, should arrive this week. Not sure if an alu hub would be worth it for weight, but less risk of loosing blades and sessions!!
Thanks for the photo, seems the layer adhesion in Z not sufficient. Did your order the hubon PCB or craftcloud ? which material ? (SLS nylon PA12 with or without GF/CF ?)
lasest battery rs50 14s with onboard bluetooth BMS also note done away with having to attach latch clips as they are printed into the battery case, works well no problem with latches. this is my first use of rs50 hoping for longer run times, first test with this battery in the next couple of days, resin still curing!
BMS and extra resin does add weight though!
Sorry to ask about an “old” post.
I’m designing my foil assist, and trying to figure about the battery connection.
You are using this XT90 and XT90s without “full” waterproof?
I know the battery case inside must be full waterproof, but I’m having some troubles with designing the battery attachment.
If you could explain more about your design please!
Thank you
see pic early in topic, there is a foam strip which compresses when battery is inserted into housing designed by Bzhwindtalker which works well, had no issues with water ingress
How do you charge via the BMS? Is there somewhere another connector?
Had several sessions now with RS50 pack, they do add more time and seem to be great cells, I get around 45mins in surf using as an assist and some motoring around as well, used as a 1p pack they still supply plenty of current. As a bonus reliance are about to release a new cell, rs60 with even better specs. looking fwd to trying those ones!! This has so far been a great setup to take the weight down and improve my pumping, the only drawback so far is getting to spots which require mins of motoring to get to. for reference i am 70kg use a nash 30L 4ft2 prone board with my biggest wing being code 980, I also use a HP or standard foildrive motor (6374, 6384) with 3 blade standard black foildrive props although the 2 blade props work also maybe not quite as efficient, still experimenting as I have the larger blue props as well!
I charge via the xt90, the bms is set up to balance cells but does not limit current output same as foildrive batteries, I rely on vesc to limit current draw
Sorry I need to ask another, maybe dumb, question.
This is an xt90s right? So only two pins. The BMS connects to the same both pins like the battery? I always thought there needs to be one extra pin for the BMS negative. This would kind of change my mind on BMS and I might add one too.
the bms normally has a circuit that is between the negative side of the battery and the negative pin of xt90 to limit current if for instance there is a dead short between the positive and negative terminals, you can wire it so that circuit is not there at all. foildrive does it this way also and you are correct in assuming there is a third connection in the foildrive battery which is used for charging the pack, however this is not necesary the battery can be charged and discharged through the main terminals only, the bms is only required to balance the cells and can do this perfectly on its own without passing current to and from the xt90 terminals. so I do away with the protection from a short circuit and rely on the vesc to manage that (same as foildrive units) just dont stick a wire in each terminal and join them together!!!
If you do not use the neg bms for charging the bms can’t stop charging if a cell has a issue!
you are correct, I do without this feature and use bluetooth to monitor cell health. If a cell dies there is not much we can do about it as it is all encased in resin. 4 batteries so far and no issues for me
If the charger has an issue (or is adjustable and set incorrectly) then there is no protection to stop over volting the pack which will be catastrophic.
If you already have a small bms in the pack there is very little downside to also charging though it.
