Hi @Bzhwindtalker ,
Any chance you can share some more details on the prop?
I did try a few ones in carbon but the efficiency was lower than the nice aluminium ones. What were your thoughts on your carbon ones?
Jordi
Hi @Bzhwindtalker ,
Any chance you can share some more details on the prop?
I did try a few ones in carbon but the efficiency was lower than the nice aluminium ones. What were your thoughts on your carbon ones?
Jordi
Saite will make custom motors for anyone, but you need to submit a design and it will cost a few thousand to get a prototype similar to FD HP with rhe plug etc. Theres an obvious reason for it. Its also good that they honour their commercial agreements.
For a normal saite waterproof its around $120 or so. They will happily give you a generic with a long cable.
My carbon blades only lasted two sessions last year due to the hub failing in cold water. Then I went alu print and those have been great.
I did not have motivation to go forged blades again since then, but a fellow DIYer shared the STL for a replica FD blade, and I also found a hub for FD blades by another user. Based on a fd style blade, my friend designed a 3 piece mold that I will try soon.
I had made two blades based on FD scan as a test in a resin mold I made, but they were not compressed and precise enough to go much further.
Hub is PPA-CF
Which XT90 are you using?
Xt90S, I had too much sparking on waterproof xt90.
I had some grease in the connector during potting and I think I may have a channel of grease instead of epoxy to the top of battery.
That or my sealing concept is not working as I would like, maybe the alu part has too much granularity on the surface.
Also received the new vesc express and maytech rx today, after a bit of open heart surgery the system is back to fully featured state.
I like that status led are visible thru the gel and cover, but ideally those would also be visible with the foil mounted for quick troubleshoot in situ.
Forged blades here we go again :
Weight after initial sanding 9.6, 10.1, 10.4 gr
Some surface imperfections, and the fiber did not fully form around the screw hole, making a weak point in the part at the worst place.
I think that is more a problem of process than mold. I should have taken even more care into pushing the fibers around the 4mm rod during fiber loading.
Leave the rod out and 3D print a drill jig. That way you will get a perfect section to drill.
If this hub is the same as the one in the photo, I downloaded it too and found it to be quite odd, with lots of artifacts within the model. So I completely rebuilt it. It’s not perfect, but it works. The PPA-CF blades also work on 12S.
I made it! I’m not a professional though. I uploaded a v2, where I basically removed the negative step to the blades.
Yours looks way cleaner ![]()
I also don’t consider myself a professional and have only the most basic skills.
I printed V2 and will test assemble with the blades
The blade root was a little wide, had to sand them down on each side. The blades do to fully fold, is it also the case on your tests?
I haven’t had the time to do it yet. I also have this problem with my Alu blades, when I tighten the screws too much. The ones for the blades and the ones that connect the hub to the motor
Will test that during tomorrow lunch break, fresh 6384 120kv and cf fd style prop.
It is 90 gr more than the 6374 maytech setup
Code red on the small lake
I tested the cf prop and setup with 6384, it is all good and super smooth, as far as noise, vibration and power. I had set a 3100rpm limit in the vesc.
Could start the 1050cm2 easily with the big board.
Had also some struggle and success with the parawing
V4 1+assist going well with carbon blades.
Noticed some cracks in the Ppa-cf hub, will order a sls pa12 version to be safe.
6384 is super smooth and powerful.
Will work on a way to place the antenna in the tracks and avoid it from moving, had issues both on the surf foil and dw board, where the antenna moved mid session, resulting in signal issues.
With pumping and light wind parawing, I could get 1h+ for one 12s1p battery.
Changed my board leash from telephone style to extendable dynema, it is much better for parawing and total weight.
@Bzhwindtalker looking good on your V4!
I’ve noticed my 12s2p pack gets a bit too warm after pushing (50amps max set on ESC) it and I’ve been wondering how would a 12s1p behave.
Would you mind sharing what max amps you’ve got yours set and how does it feel?
Thanks,
Jordi
Hey, what cells do you have?
The big foil, lots of pumping, long and narrow board, and my weight all makes for reasonable Amp need (50A is set in the vesc) and very fast takeoff. The cells for this pack are p45b, but I need to try 50PL and other tabless cells next.
Phase amps is still set at 165A from the maytech setup issues.
With the small board and motoring upwind, battery gets hot but very reasonable.
I don’t know how realistic my use case is, as I can do almost the same thing with 12s2p 18650 with 35E cell, which in theory is a very marginal setup and would be considered unusable by most, yet I can get on foil with battery down to 3.3v, even with small board.
Ouch! Didn’t thought about the whole setup, which obiously has a big impact.
I’ve been running a png1050 (big pumping wing) on 8s2p p42 without any issues for quite some time.
Recently moved to a smaller setup and started using 12s2p on a 4’2’’ board and 1100cm2 wing for more surfy setup and that’s the one is getting quite warm.
I’ve got my gen2 FD copy and thinking would be nice to try it on 12s but the only configuration possible would be 1p. Not quite sure if the cells would cope on such a discharge rate.
They’ll be again the p42 so technically I could set the esc to 35amps or so and stand up from a bump/wave maybe? I guess a mid length board would help quite a bit as well …
The simple/backup plan for flying to morocco holiday this winter, 5S2P Batteries I already have and adapters in a waterproof waist bag I already have.
I will make a fake battery adapter to plug a cable extension from the bag to the existing assist system. Main issue is to route the power cable in a way that it will not be chewed by the prop easily.